I put this in the other post last nite and today I did some testing.
Ok this is what I see on the Ford electrical diagram, fuse F-5 (15 amp) in the BJB on the bottom side front of the BJB is a connector is OG wire. (orange I assume) Now Look at the connector with bolt in the center laying horizontal between the factory air box and the strut tower it changes from orange to red in this connector known to Ford as C3001. The next stop is the alternator connector it providing reference voltage to the regulator. So there is the fuse connector, the connector under the BJB and the C3001 connector that need to be exercised if you don't want to do the mod.
Today I pulled F-5 out and rigged a connection into the slots hooked up a VOM in series on 12 amp current. I was able to re-create the flickering by having a slightly loose connection on my VOM. The flicking happens with the slightest loss of voltage to the alternator, regulator does not quickly/immediately reset again causing the flicking/fluctating. One millsecond interupt will cause 3-5 flickers before it would settle.
This happened with headlights high,fan on high and idling and 2000rpm however with a light load the regualtor is quicker to settle???? This circuit only draws 4-5 amps at the most. I interesting note is with the headlights on the current draw was 2-3 amps and revving the engine the current drops the 1/2 to 1 amp? I think once the alternator has 1500 and over rpms, the current draw probably is linear, it's that transition from idle to 1500 the output catches up.
It's a strange circuit that definitely doesn't not like any interruptions.
If I was to do the "Mod" I'd put a 15 amp in-line fuse on the mod, just in case the regulator shorts it would prevent melt down.
Paul
