Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Rear Door Needs Lube, but where?

I see others have had problems with the rear doors binding up, and I too have that problem, especially on the passenger side. I've tried some silicone spray lubricant on the check-straps and hinges, but it really hasn't made much of a difference. It would seem the lube isn't reaching whatever is causing the binding. Any thoughts on how to solve this one?

I had to spray silicon lube on the springed (?) part that goes from the door jam into the door.

I brush on a light coat of chassis lube on the check straps. The inside of it too.

JB80 on the hinge pins.

If the check straps are constructed like I've seen on my other car, the actual part that needs lubing is INSIDE the door.

If you can, try to get lube in there (w/o pulling off the panels) and use something that isn't water soluble. I think the last time I did this I used wheel bearing grease (was only thing handy).

BTW...my rear driver's side door has just started giving me loud 'scrawk' noises since the cold weather hit. I'll need to address this issue myself.

Chris

Thanks for the cards and letters!

I just tried spraying inwards (towards the door) around the check-strap - you really can't get the spray-wand inside the cavity there, although I certainly tried. Once completed, I worked the door back and fourth, but if there's any improvement, it's minimal. I am convinced the binding is from the check-strap - it really has a harsh, unnatural feel about it - almost similar to a sliding door that's off it's track.

If I pull the panel off, will it all be there easy enough to see and lube?

Try a liquid lube, like motor oil, on the check straps so that it'll run on into the door and get on the pivot point inside the door.

However I believe there is also a leakage problem somewhere in the doors, so that whenever you get a good rain it will get in there and wash it away.

So apply frequently.

To take off the panel there are only 7 phillip screws all of which are easy to get at and easy to take out.

2 are on the left side, 2 on the right side, 2 on the bottom, and the one behind the door handle (behind the plastic circle cover).

I would just take the panel off for the 3 extra minutes it will take. It should give you better access to everything you are after. You may have to remove some sound isulation, but nothing to difficult.

I had that same horrible noise from my svt, all i did was spray some white lithum grease on the guide rail or whatever it is called and worked the door back and forth until the noise and roughness ceased. Just a thought
Joe