Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Aesthetics Please help with LED mod.

Okay. I know everything on how to do it. I know how to put them in the door handle. My ONLY problem is putting them in the switches that are the window and the lock buttons. I used 5mm leds but they are too big.. I made them fit, but are there some smaller ones?, because I had to do a LOT of work to make them fit. What LEDs did y'all use for the SWITCHES? Not the door handle..

This is for the led's in the switches, NOT IN THE DOOR HANDLES!!
I have done this. I used 5mm led's in my switches as well. I DID have to modify the switch to get it to fit back together properly though. Basically all you need to do is to remove the old led and resistor, (if using 5mm led's, cut off the plastic tab thingies that supported the old led -this will give more clearance- and also, I found it necessary to sand down the rounded hump on the led to make it flat, not a whole lot, just enough to flatten out the top.) Then on the underside of the switch button where there is a white plastic piece w/ a square hole in it... I had to use my soldering iron to melt out the hole a little bit larger. Once you have done all that, just make sure you have the new led seated as flat as on the switch body and soldered in the right way, and just snap the top part back on. There are smaller led's out there, but if you are wanting blue, good luck finding some that are bright enough. hope that helped a little.

I appreciate it.. That helped a LOT.. But the only trouble I'm having is that I believe the resistor is too wide. But I still got them all to fit, I was just wondering if there was an easier way to do it. Thanks..

E?


J/K around.
Ray
US Naval Electronics Technician

If your having a size problem, you could go with a lower rated resistor, for example 1/4 watt vs. 1/2 watt resistors. You're pushing your luck when you drop it too low, as resistors tend to snap / crackle / pop when they get overloaded.

Also, FYI, LEDs are more current-driven than voltage. Don't worry too much about the operating voltage across the led being different from the actual voltage drop you're using, as long as you don't run more than, say 25 mA through a LED.

Here is an excellent LED calculator page (also has other info): http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm Just scroll down to the calculator and you can enter your values, and it will tell you what size resistor is best for the current flow you want to draw (I wouldn't go over 15-20mA on most LEDs unless they will be mounted in a cool area that doesn't get too hot). You can get the LED forward voltage spec. off of the package that the LEDs came in

Is this the How-To you're talking about?

John

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Door Handle Light HowTo

Tools:
Electrical tape
Shrink tubing
Hot glue gun
Soldering iron
Solder
Drill and 9/32? bit
Razor blade
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Multimeter

Parts:
Radio Shack PN 276-271 Green LED
18-22 guage wire

You?ll need to begin by removing the door. I won?t detail that as most already know how and there are other places that give the info.

Once the door is removed you need to remove the small portion of foam surrounding the upper surround of the black door handle housing. This should reveal a small pocket on the top. The thin plastic flap needs to be removed. Take a razor blade, or even a dremmel, and remove the plastic piece above the location that you?ll be drilling the hole for the LED. Take a look at fig. 1 and you?ll see this small flap.

Now, take the drill and drill the 9/32? hole for the LED. Insert the LED from the bottom so the wire ends are at the top. Take the glue gun and with one hand hold the LED in place from the bottom and glue the upper portion of the LED. If the hole is spot on you don?t ?need? to glue it but it is wise to do so as it will insure that it will not go anywhere. See figure #2.

Find the wiring harness that goes to the door lock switch. There is a purple w/yellow stripe wire (driver?s side front) that is hot (12v) only while the ignition is on. Use the multimeter to verify this. Also find the black ground wire. The passenger?s side front hot wire is purple w/white stripe and both rear doors are solid purple. These colors may differ on your vehicle. See figure #3

You may or may not need to add wire to the LED wiring in order to extend the length to the connections on the wiring harness. The front doors will more than likely need to be extended whereas the rear doors probably will not. Take the wire and solder enough wire to both the red(12v) and black(ground) wires of the LED to make the connection on the harness. Tape up your solder joints or use shrink tubing. Strip back a small amount of insulation on the purple wire of the harness. Use the tip of your probe on the multimeter to separate the center of the copper wire. Pass the red wire from the LED through this hole enough to wrap the wire back around the purple wire. Solder the connection and tape it up. Do the same for the black (ground) wire. Make sure all connections are taped and secured. Verify operation by inserting the key into the ignition. The light should come on and off every time you turn the ignition to the run position. If everything works properly tape the run of wire from the LED to the harness as much as possible. See figure #3. This just keeps the wire from flopping around. Reinstall the door panel and proceed to the next door. The finished install should look like figure #4 w/o the handle cover on. If you are doing the rear doors you will see that the lights will come on when the lockout from the driver?s door is shut off. Very cool. They basically come on when the switch is illuminated. See figure #5 and #6

If you have any questions feel free to contact me.

John
jcaimhigher@ixpres.com