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Joined: Jan 2005
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CEG\'er
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When I first bought my car 1+ year ago the temp gauge wasn't working. But then it started working and it worked fine for a long time, now it quit again. The needle just sits all the way to the left.
I don't know if it's a bad connection or what but I'd like a working temp gauge...... what should I do?
Thanks -Peter
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Can try a new temp. sending unit. Pretty cheap and easy to install.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Jan 2005
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CEG\'er
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Thanks for the suggestion. I have new info that might help figure out what the problem is.
The temp gauge stopped working 400 miles ago, but only last night did my check engine light come on. I assumed it wasn't related, but I just got the codes read and it was:
PO125
"Insufficient coolant temp"
How can I find out if it's the temp sensor or the temp sender that's not working?
Thanks -Peter
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 313
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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More likely solution: I suspect your thermostat is stuck open ( at least some of the time).
Your temp gauge will stay low, because the engine is being over-cooled. Of course, the engine controller will (eventually) figure out that it's not getting warm enough to consistently get into closed-loop operation.
I'll bet you've also noticed that the heater isn't working very well, either. This is exactly what my Windstar did, just a few weeks ago. A new thermostat cured all.
1995 Contour GL V6 ATX T/C
1986 Mustang GT 5.0
2000 Windstar LX
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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The temp sender drives the gauge, the temp sensor for the engine control (ECT) must agree the temp is low. Check coolant level, wiring at sensors. You could measure the sensor resistances, should be about 1000 ohms, not open or shorted.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by phil: More likely solution: I suspect your thermostat is stuck open ( at least some of the time).
Your temp gauge will stay low, because the engine is being over-cooled. Of course, the engine controller will (eventually) figure out that it's not getting warm enough to consistently get into closed-loop operation.
I'll bet you've also noticed that the heater isn't working very well, either. This is exactly what my Windstar did, just a few weeks ago. A new thermostat cured all.
Hmm... you might be right. So should I start by replacing the thermostat, and then see what happens? I've heard that u shouldn't get a 180 degree thermostat because it runs too cold and affects gas mileage. And my heater does work, but maybe not very well. I was thinking that maybe it wasn't as hot as it used to be, or that it took longer to get hot, I thought maybe I was imagining it, but probably not.
If y'all could give me some tips on what thermostat to get I'll probably start there. Thanks! -Peter
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CEG\'er
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Bump I might work on it tomorrow. Should I just replace the thermostat? I'm not sure exactly what to do.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Try to get the Ford thermostat at the dealer, 12 bucks probably.
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I did some testing, the semp sender is ok, and I think the temp sensor is ok too. I checked the the temp sensor resistance with an OHM meter when cold and it was 176, than I idled the car for about 10 min. and checked again and the resistance was 8.8 OHM, so I think the sensor works. At that point the heat was blowing decently warm, but the temp gauge was only in the white mark below the normal bracket. At least it moved though. And it is like 10 degrees here.
That leaves the thermostat, which I can get for $18 gasket included.
I also found I have a coolant leak, I think it from where the temp sending Unit screws into the thermo housing. Cars are annoying!
-Peter
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Well i pulled off my old thermostat to replace it and I'd say it had some issues.
I replaced it and I think my problem should be solved now. Lets hope so anyway.
~Peter
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