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Originally posted by NVS SVT: I will snap pics tomorrow night. Basically, if u were to pull the battery out and lift the fuse box, it's the wires going into the bottom of the fuse box and they go under the battery and connect to the positive battery terminal. It's the 6 red wires. Looks like there will be alot of splicing.Damn it I swear I'm not meant have an SVT .
Evan I think this is what the cause of my car crappingout on me all the time was.
Aaron
..i am having the same problem right now..i've been blowing the o2 fuse off and on...pull the box..the black w/blue ground wire to the battery was exposed and touching the battery tray,also all of my positive batt. wire are exposed..time to do the trunk mounted batter..
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Originally posted by NVS SVT: I will snap pics tomorrow night. Basically, if u were to pull the battery out and lift the fuse box, it's the wires going into the bottom of the fuse box and they go under the battery and connect to the positive battery terminal. It's the 6 red wires. Looks like there will be alot of splicing.Damn it I swear I'm not meant have an SVT .
Evan I think this is what the cause of my car crappingout on me all the time was.
Aaron
I'm not going to say I told you so, but I knew your original problem was not mechanical. Keep us up to date on what you decide to do.
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LOL Evan u can say "I told you so" I didn't think it was going ot be a serious as this, i had alway thought it was my superchip because eveytime i would unhook my battery for a few minutes the car would run fine.
Aaron
AKA NVS SVT
98.5 Silver/Blue SVT#4553
Yeah it's modded
98 T-Red/Blue SVT Contour Totaled 06/05/06
03 3L,VCN 2000,CAT Cams,MSDS Headers w/Y-Pipe,XCal2 and lots more
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I assisted Aaron in removing the battery box and the wires in ? are completely missing a couple of inches of insulation where they transition in to the fuse box, are touching each other, there is obvious corrosion and the wires, which appear to be about a 10 gauge, run directly to the positive terminal of the battery. If you look at the battery "+" connector, it has a plate with a number of wires crimped to it. These are the wires.
As I recall, this is not unheard of for our cars. Why it happened is another ? altogether. This car does have an aftermarket stereo c/w stand alone amplifier.
Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Replace them all - not too bad a job. But make sure you SOLDER the new wires together not those POS crimpers! 
Last edited by Stazi; 12/20/05 04:27 PM.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi: Replace them all - not too bad a job. But make sure you SOLDER the new wires together not those POS crimpers!
That's my plan for sometime in the future and perhaps the battery may end up in the trunk if I get motivated enough. I still have an issue with dimming lights at idle despite a new battery and my alt in good order. It's been like that since prob about 50,000kms so I'm hoping replacing the wiring will help. If not I know my battery cables are all in good shape.
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AKA NVS SVT
98.5 Silver/Blue SVT#4553
Yeah it's modded
98 T-Red/Blue SVT Contour Totaled 06/05/06
03 3L,VCN 2000,CAT Cams,MSDS Headers w/Y-Pipe,XCal2 and lots more
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A small point to all those from the southern US and Western Canada. As you can see from the pix, there's a significant amount of rust apparent. Although this SVT presently resides in Ontario, Canada, it's original home & where it spent the vast majority of it's life was the Northern US.
Guess that Americans live in Igloos and drive dogsleds too!
From what I've seen, the earlies have better rust protection/prevention....
Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Originally posted by Big Jim: Originally posted by NVS SVT:
You're not likely to find a technician in a Ford dealership that knows how to use a degree wheel. More likely in a high performance engine rebuilding shop. Possibly in a Porsche or VW shop depending on how many years ago they went thru training.
Be careful how you word things. Such weeping geniralizations are hardly ever true. I happen to be a tech that works for Ford and can guarantee that I know how to use a degree wheel as well as ever other tech that works there. I know them all personally. Even if they don't know, there is such a thing as a service manual that will not only guide you throught the procedure, but will give you the tool # that you will need.
MIke
The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L
Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster.
ricehatersclub.com
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