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I'VE BEEN PAINTING FOR 15 YEARS NOW... 7 AT THE LOCAL FORD DEALER. RED OR GREY SCOTCH PAD. NO WET SANDING NEEDED. YOU SHOULD D/A W/ 360 - 400 GRIT THEN FOLLOW W/ THE SCOTCH PAD FOR HARD TO REACH AREAS.I DON'T LIKE PPG(PISS POOR GLOSS) CHECK ON RM/GLASSURIT.BOTH ARE FROM THE SAME MANUFACTURER AND ARE GREAT PAINT. THE NEW "HIGH SOLIDS" CLEARS ONLY NEED ABOUT 2 FULL COATS OF MATERIAL.DON'T USE LAQUER PRIMERS YOU WISH YOU HADN'T. USE A CATYLIZED PRIMER. TALK W/ YOUR LOCAL PAINT SUPPLIER FOR TECH INFO.REMEMBER BLOCKSAND ANY BODYWORK YOU DO. IT WILL SHOW.PRIMING ANYWHERE YOU BREAK THROUGH PAIND TO BARE METAL HELPS BUT NOT ALWAYS NECESSARY. USEING A SEALER ISN'T A BAD IDEA EITHER.IF ALL ELSE FAILS... CHECK W/ A SHOP TO SHOOT YOUR CAR WHEN YOU'RE READY. TAKE IT TO THEM TAPED AND READY FOR PAPER.


95 GL V6 5SPD.
40,000 MILES
MIDNIGHT RED.
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if you are using a good quality paint. it should say right on the can what the open air dry time is. Most paints will dry on their own enough to drive in a day. I would wait at least a week before i wash it. and atleast three months before you wax it.


98.5 SE Sport Contour
Big Plans, Not Much Done Yet
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Wrong on the waxing thing. Todays paints will dry within 24 hours. You can then wetsand, buff and wax. Do not use laquer paint or straight enamel. use a base/clear urethane system. And dont be cheap about your paint. A gallon of rm or ppg will run you between $150 and $400+ just for the base. Add clear, catylized primers, mud, and tape/paper... and you can expect to have up to $800 for a do it yourself job. And if you have no experience w/ a gun and run the paint enough that you need to repaint, how much have you really saved. Do all the prep work yourself, so the car is 100% ready to shoot. Then find someone you know that does that type of work or hire a reputable shop to shoot it for you. most guys will shoot it for about $100-$150 + materials. ..much cheaper than a repaint. just make sure the car is taped and ready for the gun.


95 GL V6 5SPD.
40,000 MILES
MIDNIGHT RED.
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draven, sal zaino just told me the same thing. my car is being repainted now. the shop said i can use a polish for 8 weeks to cover up swirls then i can wax it. i contacted sal and asked his opinion. he said todays paint has catalysts in it that cures very quickly. he said he'd wait 1 week at the most before giving a repainted car the full zaino treatment. i think i believe him but i'll wait 2-3 weeks just to be safe. and since zaino doesn't contain wax, its another reason it can go on.


...and yes, I did SEARCH first before asking.

AIM:omegazodiac

95 gl
99 contour svt #1750/2760
built 4/6/99
black/tan
plates, not personalized (###-REV)
amsoil series 2000 oil & filter~amsoil tranny fluid cocktail~tint: 35% windshield/front doors,20% rear window/rear doors~black oval/rear strip~nyceboi rear emblem~aussie grills~hella led sidemarkers~piaa superwhite low's~piaa extreme reverse lights~door dingless (knauberized)~hood liner removed~black '95 sail panels~trunk cargo net~mondeo hood struts~ford racing red 9mm wires~autolite double plat plugs~jensen hu~recontented dash clock(it rocks)~clifford ag4 security
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Just remember hmouta, and most people don't know this. DO NOT PUT WAX ON IN CIRCULAR MOTIONS. I know bottles of wax tell you to do this, but all you are doing is putting swirls back in the paint. Put wax on back and forth w/ the length of the car. You see, there are particles of dust on the paint ,even if its clean. If you wax in circles then the dust will scratch the paint in circles... and now you have swirls. It may sound odd , but thats what happens. Enjoy the new paint. smile


95 GL V6 5SPD.
40,000 MILES
MIDNIGHT RED.
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Quote:
Originally posted by DRAVEN:
I'VE BEEN PAINTING FOR 15 YEARS NOW... 7 AT THE LOCAL FORD DEALER. RED OR GREY SCOTCH PAD. NO WET SANDING NEEDED. YOU SHOULD D/A W/ 360 - 400 GRIT THEN FOLLOW W/ THE SCOTCH PAD FOR HARD TO REACH AREAS.I DON'T LIKE PPG(PISS POOR GLOSS) CHECK ON RM/GLASSURIT.BOTH ARE FROM THE SAME MANUFACTURER AND ARE GREAT PAINT. THE NEW "HIGH SOLIDS" CLEARS ONLY NEED ABOUT 2 FULL COATS OF MATERIAL.DON'T USE LAQUER PRIMERS YOU WISH YOU HADN'T. USE A CATYLIZED PRIMER. TALK W/ YOUR LOCAL PAINT SUPPLIER FOR TECH INFO.REMEMBER BLOCKSAND ANY BODYWORK YOU DO. IT WILL SHOW.PRIMING ANYWHERE YOU BREAK THROUGH PAIND TO BARE METAL HELPS BUT NOT ALWAYS NECESSARY. USEING A SEALER ISN'T A BAD IDEA EITHER.IF ALL ELSE FAILS... CHECK W/ A SHOP TO SHOOT YOUR CAR WHEN YOU'RE READY. TAKE IT TO THEM TAPED AND READY FOR PAPER.


1991 GVR4
Lots of mods done.
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Sorry if some can't comprehend how to read capital letters. Never heard of this capitals = yelling. None of the comics I used to write means any of that. If lowering the standard of writing is what make some ppl happy then I'll just have to do that. So, therefore, if I have upset anyone I do appologize. For others that don't read this ... I don't know how many more times I must post it. Drive safe guys. :p


95 GL V6 5SPD.
40,000 MILES
MIDNIGHT RED.
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Quote:
Originally posted by DRAVEN:
If lowering the standard of writing is what make some ppl happy then I'll just have to do that.
I don't grasp how posting in all capitals raises the standard of writing? Could your clarify?


1991 GVR4
Lots of mods done.
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Draven you have a PM.


'95 GL White
K&N
*New Wire Harness* ;P
Pioneer front spkrs, Infinity rear, and Kenwood 320w amp installed YAY!
I'd like to give a shout out to audio forum-esp. archives...you guys helped more than you know..THANKS!
No more mods for now--just hoping she stays well.
78K and still kickin' it.
neworleansgrl26@yahoo.com
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Quote:
Originally posted by ShiftyGT40:
laugh My initial response was pist-offedness (just created a new word), then I checked your profile and realized you just might know what you're talking about. Good to see you were just pushing buttons, though! :p
Have you seen his paint job? It's the sheet...


'99 Contour SE V6 w/MTX (Black Clearcoat)
'02 Dakota 4.7L V8 2WD X-Cab (Flame Red Clearcoat)
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