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Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
... For the eleven-billionth time, learn to type!
+ eleven-billionth time.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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What PaleHorse said in Sentence Case (thanks word) Todras is correct...definitely a two person job and a pita as well! Like he said stagger them when feeding them through the floor. If i remember right i had to remove some of the aluminum under body paneling ( above the y-pipe) to feed the cables through without tearing them up. Obviously you have to feed them from the inside of the car to the engine bay due to the grommet that is attached to the cables.make sure that you keep the overall shape of the cables as you pass them through the floor (i.e., dont twist them as this will make you swear and throw things later on. You will find that above your knock sensor there is a bracket that looks like the mcdonalds arches..new school, not old school single arch. It is black. If you look at the cables lock mechanisms...black barrel shaped pieces of poo, they mysteriously want to slide onto the double arches. That's because they go there. However while sliding them onto the arches, you must twist the ends of the black barrels to release the catch in order to get them to slide onto the double arches. You will notice that there are some black barrels on the inside of the car as well that will need a home much like those above your knock sensor. These work in the same fashion. In order to get these to stay put on the bracket, you must twist the ends. Once you have your cables on you can pop the ends onto the shift tower and shifter assembly. I highly reccomend using e-clips where necessary to hold your fine new cables in place on the "nipples" of said shift tower and shifter assembly. The small orange plastic inserts are highly important!!!! You will see these at the ends of the shifter cables. These are your left/right forward/aft adjustment tabs. I believe the newer cougar cables dont have spring loaded orange clips so you dont want to push these clips in before you run your cables as this will make things more difficult to adjust. (you would have to pry these up with very little room once the cables are run.in order to adjust you will need two people. One in the car and one under to adjust your manual tranny shift pattern back to normal. You will immediately notice that your shifter is way out of wack compared to what is normal. As drunken friend is in the vehicle, have him find the neutral position on the gearbox. Make a baseline row of the gears to see if you have it remotely close or not. In order to adjust pattern you must lift the orange clips (more like pry) to allow movement of your cable. Your incoherent friend will say something like "you must have broke it because its all mushy feeling" or something to the like. He will now be able to move more freely either forward/aft or left right. You need to have both orange tabs "lifted" in order to make this easier on your self. As you push the orange tabs back in slowly one small click at a time, you can dial in the correct amount of movement to get your pattern correct again. Hope this helps. 
Cameron
98 Black CSVT #2958
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Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
No f-ing way I'm reading that. For the eleven-billionth time, learn to type!
Learn To Read.
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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I read it and it is a good explanation but it is difficult to keep my place throughout the document without spaces and carriage returns. Try paragraphing with each new area of topic. Let just one capital letter be the start of the sentence. Unless you don't want to, it's perfectly fine and up to you except that many people won't read all of it. They did make these Innovations in type written text....A long time ago....and taught their children(that's us) how to make typewritten text easier to read so that one day we may all still have eyesight in our old age. 
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Im Laughing My Ass Off Right Now!!!
Warmonger, That Is Quite Possibly One Of The Most Eloquent Ways Ive Ever Heard Some One Tell Me To Unf*ck My Typing!
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Im Laughing My Ass Off Right Now!!!
Warmonger, That Is Quite Possibly One Of The Most Eloquent Ways Ive Ever Heard Some One Tell Me To Unf*ck My Typing!
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,838
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Todras Is Correct...Definitely A Two Person Job And A PITA As Well! Like He Said Stagger Them When Feeding Them Through The Floor. If I Remember Right I Had To Remove Some Of The Aluminum Under Body Paneling ( Above The Y-Pipe) To Feed The Cables Through Without Tearing Them Up. Obviously You Have To Feed Them From The Inside Of The Car To The Engine Bay Due To The Grommet That Is Attached To The Cables.Make Sure That You Keep The Overall Shape Of The Cables As You Pass Them Through The Floor (I.E., Dont Twist Them As This Will Make You Swear And Throw Things Later On. You Will Find That Above Your Knock Sensor There Is A Bracket That Looks Like The Mcdonalds Arches..New School, Not Old School Single Arch. It Is Black. If You Look At The Cables Lock Mechanisms...Black Barrel Shaped Pieces Of POO, They Mysteriously Want To Slide Onto The Double Arches. That's Because They Go There. However While Sliding Them Onto The Arches, You Must Twist The Ends Of The Black Barrels To Release The Catch In Order To Get Them To Slide Onto The Double Arches. You Will Notice That There Are Some Black Barrels On The Inside Of The Car As Well That Will Need A Home Much Like Those Above Your Knock Sensor. These Work In The Same Fashion. In Order To Get These TO Stay Put On The Bracket, You Must Twist The Ends. Once You Have Your Cables On You Can Pop The Ends Onto The Shift Tower And Shifter Assembly. I Highly Reccomend Using E-Clips Where Necessary To Hold Your Fine New Cables In Place On The "Nipples" Of Said Shift Tower And Shifter Assembly. The Small Orange Plastic Inserts Are Highly Important!!!! You Will See These At The Ends Of The Shifter Cables. These Are Your Left/Right Forward/Aft Adjustment Tabs. I Believe The Newer Cougar Cables Dont Have Spring Loaded Orange Clips So You DONT Want To Push These Clips In BEFORE You Run Your Cables As This Will Make Things More Difficult To Adjust. (you Would Have To Pry These Up With Very Little Room Once The Cables Are Run.In Order To Adjust You Will Need Two People. One In The Car And One Under To Adjust Your Manual Tranny Shift Pattern Back To Normal. You Will Immediately Notice That Your Shifter Is Way Out Of Wack Compared To What Is Normal. As Drunken Friend Is In THe Vehicle, Have Him Find The Neutral Position On The Gearbox. Make A Baseline Row OF The Gears To See If You Have It Remotely Close Or Not. In Order To Adjust Pattern You Must Lift The Orange Clips (More Like PRY) To Allow Movement Of Your Cable. Your Incoherent Friend Will Say Something Like "You Must Have Broke It Because Its All Mushy Feeling" Or Something To The Like. He Will Now Be Able To Move More Freely Either Forward/Aft Or Left Right. You Need To Have Both Orange Tabs "Lifted" In Order To Make This Easier On Your Self. As You Push The Orange Tabs Back In SLOWLY One Small Click At A Time, You Can Dial In The Correct Amount Of Movement To Get Your Pattern Correct Again. Hope This Helps.
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Im Laughing My Ass Off Right Now!!!
Warmonger, That Is Quite Possibly One Of The Most Eloquent Ways Ive Ever Heard Some One Tell Me To Unf*ck My Typing!
I've got to admit , it's EXTREMELY annoying to try to read that post the way you have it typed . I couldn't make it past about the first 2 lines before I moved on . If you're looking for a way to get people to ignore mostly anything you've got to say ... you've got it figured out  . There might have been something interesting to read in there , but I wouldn't have known it . Heck , if it wasn't for SVTatGT , I wouldn't have read any further than than I did . So PLEASE , I beg of you , type in a normal format !! I don't want to miss a word .
~~~~~~~ Phil
Black & Tan 2000 SVT Contour #2137 of 2150
35,000 miles & counting !
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I found it easiest to get it over the guide by getting the cables fully pulled through then running them over the subframe. If you try to do it directly, it won't work; the cables won't bend at that sharp of an angle.
Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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