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We got about 4 iunches of snow last night. Whether it's the car or truck, I'll start it up, blast the heat, go back inside and do the 3 s's, get dressed and hop in the car. It's more for me than the car...I don't like sitting in a cold car. And it makes it easier to clean/de-ice.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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A big thing I learned for us auto guys is to put it in neutral because it moves the fluid around and warms up the tranny too, but dosn't do it in park. Nolt sure how true that is but it can't hurt. I let the revs go to at least 1000 if I'm in a hurry, usually to normal idling if I'm not. But with the temps we get warming it up is a must if its -20 or more. I let it run for about 7 min once at this temp and it seemed ok so I drove very slowly and the engine was very slugish and the tranny came out of drive by its self because it was too cold. My trans is fine 8,000 miles later and was fine after I let if sit there for a min or 2. Just don't start it up and immediatly drive away unless you really want an escuse to do a 3L swap.
95 LX-with a mind of its own
24v DOHC
SVT exhaust and K&N=all thats worth modding
Go Fighting Sioux!!!
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Originally posted by TGO:
I'll start it up, blast the heat, go back inside and do the 3 s's, get dressed and hop in the car.
My friends father did this except for the hopping in the car part, he went out side and his BMW was gone.
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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Originally posted by BlackE1:
Originally posted by TGO:
I'll start it up, blast the heat, go back inside and do the 3 s's, get dressed and hop in the car.
My friends father did this except for the hopping in the car part, he went out side and his BMW was gone.
Ouch!!!!! Did he ever get it back?!?!? 
"Do what you like, Because you have to drive it!"-Me
99 Contour LX
95 Mustang GT Convertible
97 Z24 Cavalier
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Originally posted by jtour:
Originally posted by BlackE1:
Originally posted by TGO:
I'll start it up, blast the heat, go back inside and do the 3 s's, get dressed and hop in the car.
My friends father did this except for the hopping in the car part, he went out side and his BMW was gone.
Ouch!!!!! Did he ever get it back?!?!?
Nope. I still have, uh... I mean, yeah, did he ever get it back?
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by striker2:
Originally posted by Rishodi:
Originally posted by striker2:
the best thing you can do is start it and drive. you actually wear off mor of the cylinder wall when the engine is cold than when its warm. the fastest way to warm it up is to drive it. however it takes the average car about 45 minutes to warm up.
45 minutes? I don't think so!! It takes maybe 2 minutes for hot air to flow through my vents in the winter after starting my car up, and it can't take too long for the engine to reach its ideal temperature after that.
the optimal operationg temp for an engine is about 210 degrees and it takes roughly 45 min to get there. the aluminium engines may warm up faster but our blocks are cast iron. when the engine is cold you actually wear about .008 off the cylinder wall for every hour idleing at that temp. you wear less than .002 off the walls when its at optimal operating temp.
1> I don't see how those numbers could be correct. Using that math within a year of normal driving given what the average car sits at idle between traffic, start-up, and traffic lights, even at optimal temperature, an engine will have several mm of cylinder wear in just a year. There'd be no cylinders left after a couple years.
2> Assuming you're correct and that an engine at optimal temperature is 1/4th as harmful to the engine as one that's cold, why again would I want to just take off and drive?
For one, that relationship between 0.008 and 0.002 on the temperature curve would be non-linear, it would be a logarithmic curve of some sort. So, while it may take 45 minutes to fully warm an engine, that 0.008 done at "cold" is done right at startup and just a few moments thereafter. Cylinder wear would quickly decrease within a few moments to, let's say 0.004, then slowly decrease over the next 40+ minutes until reaching 0.002 in 45 minutes. Almost all of the period of high wear is done right at start-up.
So, in your rush to warm the motor 'because that does less wear', you drive it. Now, instead of having a cold motor sit at 750rpm doing 0.008 of damage, you're driving it and doing five times that because the cylinders are pumping 5 times faster in that initial time of high wear.
In those first few moments of high wear, you multipled the wear several times what it would have been sitting at idle. Those first few moments of high wear by revving a motor at its' 'weakest' will vastly offset the higher wear that one gets by bypassing that period of high wear, letting it pass at idle, then driving the car at a slightly cooler temperature at a point on the curve where wear difference really isn't that significant.
2003 Mazda6s 3.0L MTX
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2004 Mazda3s 2.3L ATX
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My car seems to take forever to warm up. Maybe 2 or 3 miles before the temp needle even moves. Then it starts to slowly warm up. Oil pressure stays high for much longer than that. I know my T-stat is good.
I have a built in block heater, I still have to give that thing a try.
Anyway, I always let my cars idle settle before going anywhere. Then I just keep the revs low until its warmer and the oil pressure starts to drop.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
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98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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Originally posted by BlackE1:
nope never saw it again.
That sux.
Thinking about it yes you should let the car warm up. Its like you going to work out and trying to run a 5k with out stretching or loosening up your muscles. Not to good right.
"Do what you like, Because you have to drive it!"-Me
99 Contour LX
95 Mustang GT Convertible
97 Z24 Cavalier
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Originally posted by sigma:
Originally posted by striker2:
Originally posted by Rishodi:
Originally posted by striker2:
the best thing you can do is start it and drive. you actually wear off mor of the cylinder wall when the engine is cold than when its warm. the fastest way to warm it up is to drive it. however it takes the average car about 45 minutes to warm up.
45 minutes? I don't think so!! It takes maybe 2 minutes for hot air to flow through my vents in the winter after starting my car up, and it can't take too long for the engine to reach its ideal temperature after that.
the optimal operationg temp for an engine is about 210 degrees and it takes roughly 45 min to get there. the aluminium engines may warm up faster but our blocks are cast iron. when the engine is cold you actually wear about .008 off the cylinder wall for every hour idleing at that temp. you wear less than .002 off the walls when its at optimal operating temp.
1> I don't see how those numbers could be correct. Using that math within a year of normal driving given what the average car sits at idle between traffic, start-up, and traffic lights, even at optimal temperature, an engine will have several mm of cylinder wear in just a year. There'd be no cylinders left after a couple years.
2> Assuming you're correct and that an engine at optimal temperature is 1/4th as harmful to the engine as one that's cold, why again would I want to just take off and drive?
For one, that relationship between 0.008 and 0.002 on the temperature curve would be non-linear, it would be a logarithmic curve of some sort. So, while it may take 45 minutes to fully warm an engine, that 0.008 done at "cold" is done right at startup and just a few moments thereafter. Cylinder wear would quickly decrease within a few moments to, let's say 0.004, then slowly decrease over the next 40+ minutes until reaching 0.002 in 45 minutes. Almost all of the period of high wear is done right at start-up.
So, in your rush to warm the motor 'because that does less wear', you drive it. Now, instead of having a cold motor sit at 750rpm doing 0.008 of damage, you're driving it and doing five times that because the cylinders are pumping 5 times faster in that initial time of high wear.
In those first few moments of high wear, you multipled the wear several times what it would have been sitting at idle. Those first few moments of high wear by revving a motor at its' 'weakest' will vastly offset the higher wear that one gets by bypassing that period of high wear, letting it pass at idle, then driving the car at a slightly cooler temperature at a point on the curve where wear difference really isn't that significant.
I agree. .002 of an inch is a lot in this regard. Hell, i'd even think that .0002 would be a lot.
People shouldn't run a business if they can't keep their priorities straight or their end of the contract up.
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