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Trevor- in previous posts you stated that your turbo was a T3/4. So we should assume that your flange will be for a T3 correct?
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That is currect ... typo on my part ... sorry.
Regardless, should I:
1) Knife Edge
2) Knife Edge & Coat
3) Neither
Last edited by fastcougar; 02/20/06 08:52 PM.
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Originally posted by fastcougar: That is currect ... typo on my part ... sorry.
Regardless, should I:
1) Knife Edge 2) Knife Edge & Coat 3) Neither
I vote for neither
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Originally posted by 99cougar: Originally posted by fastcougar: That is currect ... typo on my part ... sorry.
Regardless, should I:
1) Knife Edge 2) Knife Edge & Coat 3) Neither
I vote for neither
Why? What experience do you have with porting turbine housings? The list of why's could go on and on ... I'm looking for some education here, not simple yes/no answers.
My theory is that if I knife edge the split bar in the housing, I will create less turbulance in the turbine housing and smooth out exhaust flow. I am hisitant because thinner metal will get hotter MUCH faster than it's thicker counterpart, thus why I would want to coat the turbine housing ... that and more importantly to lower underhood temps and lessen the possibility of melting some underhood wires & help heatsoak the engine/intake air/tubing.
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Im really looking forward to seeing a finished product. I look at all the DIY'ers and im just in shock and awe at the level of skill and patience as well as resources available. Great work, Im sure whatever option you go with will be suitable
Alex
'99 SVT Contour
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Don't touch it. I would bet good money on the fact that knife edging it won't help at all insofar as performance, and then you make a very thin piece of metal that will be more likely to ROT away under the intense heat of the exhaust! Eventually it will look like an oxidized metal or aluminum tin can sitting in a fire for too long. IF you had a lot of casting flash on it and wanted to smooth it out then that would be fine to help reduce drag on flow. Even porting for gasket match purposes so that it is the same size as the inlet flange will be fine. Otherwise NOPE.
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356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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Originally posted by warmonger: Don't touch it. I would bet good money on the fact that knife edging it won't help at all insofar as performance, and then you make a very thin piece of metal that will be more likely to ROT away under the intense heat of the exhaust! Eventually it will look like an oxidized metal or aluminum tin can sitting in a fire for too long. IF you had a lot of casting flash on it and wanted to smooth it out then that would be fine to help reduce drag on flow. Even porting for gasket match purposes so that it is the same size as the inlet flange will be fine. Otherwise NOPE.
Thanks for clarifying my answer Tom.
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
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Originally posted by 99cougar: Originally posted by warmonger: Don't touch it. I would bet good money on the fact that knife edging it won't help at all insofar as performance, and then you make a very thin piece of metal that will be more likely to ROT away under the intense heat of the exhaust! Eventually it will look like an oxidized metal or aluminum tin can sitting in a fire for too long. IF you had a lot of casting flash on it and wanted to smooth it out then that would be fine to help reduce drag on flow. Even porting for gasket match purposes so that it is the same size as the inlet flange will be fine. Otherwise NOPE.
Thanks for clarifying my answer Tom.
NP
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356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
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'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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The .70 A/R housing is a bit small for a 3.0. An .82 would be a better choice for high hp. .70 will end up choking at the top end but really spool up quickly. I would not knife edge personally due to all the reasons Tom stated. I would consider changing the turbine housing.
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Thanks guys ... she will go untouched and uncoated for now. I don't have the time/money left in my budget to order another housing, so the .7 A/R on the turbine will have to stay for now for development purposes. My 3" piping for the down-pipe back arrived a few days ago ... waiting on the 2.5" piping with turbine flange an transitions. I will keep everyone updated with piping progress.
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