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Joined: Aug 2001
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Try changing the fluid? It has been known to completely get rid of third gear grind in some instances.
I'd say try Redline MT90. I ran that this summer and it worked great.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Sweet! Magic fluid to replace worn out metal.  Just putting a band-aid on a permanent issue. Throw the $21 for fluid towards the rebuild.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by todras:
Sweet! Magic fluid to replace worn out metal. Just putting a band-aid on a permanent issue. Throw the $21 for fluid towards the rebuild.
Wow, I guess you've turned into a clairvoyant recently hmm? AND you can tell what is going on inside someones transmission from all the way over there now.....
And we can all guess at the very next post you will/would've made! 
Here are some points you need to remember before you just jump on the bandwagon of "Your tranny makes noise...and it's going to blow...send it to Terry....its the only way!": <BTW, you aren't getting kickbacks are you? Maybe by now you should be...>
-It will only cost $20 bucks to try out some decent fluid and see if the friction change will help out the grind.
-The old fluid coming out will give a better understanding of what the internal state of the transmission is and will help in determining the next course of action
-The 98 and 99 SVTs are almost all notorious for having issues with 3rd gear. I know, I've owned both models and purchased both brand new. The "feel" of third gear can change based on fluid change.
-It is very possible that the temperature change towards winter time has caused the fluid that is in there to not be as effective, especially if its old.
-Last, if it DOES work to get him through the winter or a few months or whatever, then its a few months more where it works and he's not spending more money out of pocket and where he's actually getting more value out of the car.
-If it doesn't work and it shifts the same, grinds the same, etc. Then he already KNOWS that he has to do a more major change.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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You and I both know how suseptable 98+ cable shift cars are. If he has at least changed the fluid once it should be in ok shape. I would say with about 100% certainty that if you have high mileage and have never had an issue before it's time to pull the trans. He should be able to go down to the corner store and get some fresh ATF and but it in w/ very little cost. If it's still grinding, which it will be, it's time to pull the trans. Magic MT90 isn't going to fix squat. Now if you want to limp it for a couple months go right ahead, it's your car.
War answer this Q.
Why is changing the fluid in an MTX-75 going to stop the
faulty syncro/blocker ring? Please explain what it does. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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 What, and have you and/or Terry try to pick any explanation I give apart...just for the enjoyment? No thanks. We already went there remember? We all know that: There is only one true God of the MTX75 and Moh...er...Todras is his prophet.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Well, just because you have new shift forks doesn't mean squat.
You need to have Terry Haines install the beefed up 3rd gear synchros in it. 3rd gear synchros are one of the WEAKEST links in the tranny aside from the POS open diff, which I'm guessing you have in there as well. So I wouild look at getting an LSD, be it Quaife or Torsen in there while you've go it at Terry's.
War...why not yell at stazi for making the same comment? Todd just came in to say the same thing. 
If third gear is grinding badly no fluid will fix it. I know because I tried putting in fresh fluid and it didn't get any better. 
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Originally posted by warmonger:
We already went there remember?
We all know that: There is only one true God of the MTX75 and Moh...er...Todras is his prophet.
We did? Can you post the link? I'd like to read. What's with this prophet comment. Nice flame bait.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
War...why not yell at stazi for making the same comment? Todd just came in to say the same thing.
Because having an opinion and posting is fine. Having an opinion and deliberately ridiculing someone elses is not. If I posted something obviously wrong then correcting me is fine. But I didn't.
Second, because Stazi didn't directly reply to me.
You should re-read the post order. I haven't messed with Todd at all.
And since you've already pointed out that fluid didn't work for you....I understand. It is just an option to try before ripping out the trans right now. Sometimes when the ambient temps drop then grinding or notchy shifting can occur depending on the cool weather suitability of the fluid. The post response to my simple comment was typical and I expect that even this will be disected.
Go ahead, flame away.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Addicted CEG\'er
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I agree. Why not change the fluid to see if it helps at all? If it helps the problem, you can delay the rebuild and have time to save a little cash. If it doesn't help it, then you're out ~$20, which when we're talking about transmission rebuilds of ~$2000, that $20 isn't going to be the straw that broke the camels back. And since when does one person's 3rd gear grinding have anything to do with another person's 3rd gear grinding? Could be two totally different reasons, with two totally different needs, so why not rule out the cheaper, easier, fluid refill? Damn, some people just need something to nitpick!  Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Go ahead, flame away.
OK. A crunching syncro/blocker will cost you an extra $100+ down the road if you don't fix it asap. Why? Because the first bit that crunches is the blocker itself. It crunches on the steel syncro hub so the brass on the blocker dogs also gets worn out. No big deal as the blocker should be changed and the steel of the hub is harder. Continue to use it with a grind and the steel of the syncro hub also grinds on the actual gear (which is steel). So now apart from blockers you need a new syncro hub and a gear because you have had steel on steel 'crunching' and f'ed up the dogs on the gear and the dogs on the syncro hub. So add those extra two parts to your cost. Expensive $20 of oil eh!!! I'd take every $20 I can get towards a rebuild.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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