Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting 1995 Contour LX Duratec 2.5L

Hi All,

I am not a mechanic and am not afraid of getting into the nitty-gritty as long as I do not make things worse. Have worked on a '67 Chevy Van (insert music here) and most recently a Mazda B2000 truck.

Anne's 1995 Contour LX Duratec 2.5L has had problems since she bought it. It was new with 11 miles on it. Her brother is a Ford tranny mechanic, in another state, so she knows how to break in a car. Enough background.

I've searched and read many posts here but have a few questions.

Here is the current problem:

Some months ago we were on the interstate at 60mph when I pressed the accelerator and there was a loss of power. It got worse so I drove home and we used the Subaru from there on. (We have limited funds and ignoring things seems a hobby.) The Contour sat for a while. When it needed a state inspection it started ok but soon began hesitating and backfiring on the way. I was following Anne wondering what was causing the hesitation and backfiring. Stopping at a dept store lot I opened the hood to a high pitched sound; could hear it beforehand. Couldn't determine the source, though it seemed in the area of the EGR valve.

Now it needs fixing.

The most similar post ended w/o resolution.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=47399&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1

Will certainly do as suggested, but...

The questions are:

1. Is there an easy way to test for a leak? I see Gumout, etc. with cautions on fires. Also saw a reference to incense. Is there a safe, easy to test for leaks? The incense method seems harmless enough

2. Thought this may be the EGR but read EGRs seldom fail, could it be the PCV?

3. If I need to replace the EGR, what size wrench do I need? The largest I have is 7/8th.

I have a replacement EGR valve and am ready to replace it. But if those who know better - this means you - have a better suggestion...

Oh, it has ~50K miles on it

Thanks

Vince

Does the car have a "check engine light" (CEL) on? If so get it read and post the codes.

Yep, off and on for a long time. The local dealer never really fixed it. Can I tell you the codes? No. Will I try to find the codes, yes. Don't meant to be short, but do you know an easy way to test for leaks?

Welcome.

"1. Is there an easy way to test for a leak?"
Yes. Spray carb cleaner and if the idle increases or decrease, that is where the vacuum leak is. Sometimes, you can hear a hissing sound.

"2. Thought this may be the EGR but read EGRs seldom fail, could it be the PCV?"
It could, but more likely DPFE but you need to scan for the codes and post.

"3. If I need to replace the EGR, what size wrench do I need?"
Not sure of the big tube nut but I think 7/8 should be good enough.

"I have a replacement EGR valve and am ready to replace it."
If you replace the EGR, get a new gasket too, for $1, you can't go wrong there.

Also test for plugged exhaust. Unplug the O2 sensor and if performance improves, you have a plugged exhaust.

CEL code. Take it to Autozone or Advance for free scanning. Some will scan 1995 models too. If not, then use the paper clip method.
http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=10

EGR/DPFE test.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1110464&Forum=trouble&Words=egr%20suck&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1week&Main=1110435&Search=true#Post1110464

Plugged exhaust
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1109982&Forum=trouble&Words=plugged&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1week&Main=1109438&Search=true#Post1109982

Thanks, really.

#1 - was hoping for a way that didn't involve flammables.
Edit - the noise is loud, high pitched and sustained.

#2 - ok, will try.

#3 - I tried the 7/8th - didn't work, too small.

"#1 - was hoping for a way that didn't involve flammables.
Edit - the noise is loud, high pitched and sustained."
Sounds like a vacuum leak, all right. If it is that loud and high pitched, you should be able to locate it by feeling with your fingers and then covering it.

"#3 - I tried the 7/8th - didn't work, too small."
Time to invest in some tools.
The 7/8 inch works well for the O2 sensor.

Incidentally, you could also have a 02 sensor going bad if it is hesitating at high speeds, but you should get a CEL code for that.

The Egr "disc" has a green plastic tube attached to the top of it, check that, it was the first line to crack on my car. Also, pcv lines. You might be lucky, all you need is to fix a hose.

A new battery, a bad taste, a lot of rain and a paperclip later here is the latest:

1. The noise wasn't as loud as before - may need warming up or driving, don't know yet. Sounded like air moving (vacuum) but could not find the leak. Will try carbuerator cleaner next time. btw - the incense trick didn't work for me.

2. Sucked on the tube above the EGR and the engine RPMs went down - yuck, next time I'll use an extension. Removed the green tube top of the EGR and nothing changed - sound, RPMs, nothing.

3. Got the codes via the ol' paperclip trick - THANKS!

Let her warm up until the temp needle was just into the Normal zone. Put the 5spd manual into Neutral w/ parking brake on.

543 - Fuel pump circuit

563 - Radiator cooling fan relay or circuit

Nothing useful I can see.

4. This seems BAD - checked the exhaust and there was barely any air movement. Had Anne increase the RPMs and the air flow hardly increased. Had noticed the smell of exhaust in the engine compartment earlier - no smoke that I could see. Maybe I'm just paranoid.

I've seen where Ford had a recall or something for the emissions or cat. With 57.7k miles bought June '95 if this is the problem do you think Ford will cover it?

All the above was done in the driveway.

I need help...

" Will try carbuerator cleaner next time."
Note that the carb cleaner test is only for the engine bay area, not the exhaust at the bottom.

"Sucked on the tube above the EGR and the engine RPMs went down"
EGR valve works.

"543 - Fuel pump circuit"
Fuel pump issues can cause stumbling at high speeds or load

"This seems BAD - checked the exhaust and there was barely any air movement. Had Anne increase the RPMs and the air flow hardly increased."
Did you do the plugged exhaust test?

"I've seen where Ford had a recall or something for the emissions or cat. With 57.7k miles bought June '95 if this is the problem do you think Ford will cover it?"
No, it is past the warranty period. Catalytic converter warranty is 8 years/80k miles whichever occurs first.

plugged exhaust test? You lost me. Searched Troubleshooting, looked in the FAQ and Googled contour.org w/ no result I can see. Do you have a link in case I missed something? thx