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!!!

Background info: '98.5 SVT Contour, 51k miles.

Engine: Complete 3L Swap from an '03 Sable (30k miles) 1,000 miles ago due to transmission self "ventilation".

Trans: MTX75 with new shift forks, Torsen LSD, newer style shift tower, B&M short shifter.

Wheels: OZ Racing Superlegarra with 17" 215-45-ZR17 tires.

Brakes: Baer Big Brake kit with stainless lines, different pads, etc.

Suspension: Ground control (?) coilovers with Koni yellow adjustable shocks. Currently set all the way on high for winter driving, previous setting was on "Ant killer".

Bracing: Strut tower brace (brand unknown) and rear strut brace.

Issues:
#1. When accelerating quite BRISKLY (WOT) from a stop sign, if not touching steering wheel will turn VERY sharp and car swerves VERY violently towards one side of road or another. This happens in 1st or 2nd gear in the higher RPM's and orientation is random. When doing "hands on" driving, can feel a definete pull one side or another and requires Incredible Hulk arms to keep driving straight.

#2. When taking a sharp turn from a dead stop, hear a grinding like metal on metal. Problem doesn't seem to exist at higher speeds nor does it seem to exist in reverse. Only forward gears (that I know of).

Troubleshooting steps at this point:
General alignment *IS* off, but not bad enough where it would swerve that bad at idle-80% throttle. Obviously I jacked up car and checked for brake dragging, wheels rubbing, etc. Only weird thing is that when you spin the wheel while in air, it makes slight creaking noise, but could be within trans, bearings, anything, etc.

OK. My GUESSES at this point are:

1. The torque steer is overcoming the LSD and causing ONE wheel to spin while the other isn't. This presents a problem since the LSD should be "catching up", making them both spin SOMEWHERE near the same speed?

2. The alignment is so off that it is moving that direction under chassis flex. I have wondered if I have a bad motor mount/trans mount, causing entire drivetrain to twist, causing misalignment while under WOT.

3. The last theory I can think of is that the trans or LSD are not doing their jobs or it is hindering one or the other. Something is defintely wrong and if not treated could get worse. These problems did NOT occur with stock motor, but only drove w/ 2.5L for about 2 months. Never really got a chance to get on it much and never noticed grinding noises.

Any thoughts?

Dan

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Originally posted by DNeinstadt:
!!!

Background info: '98.5 SVT Contour, 51k miles.

Engine: Complete 3L Swap from an '03 Sable (30k miles) 1,000 miles ago due to transmission self "ventilation".

Trans: MTX75 with new shift forks, Torsen LSD, newer style shift tower, B&M short shifter.

Wheels: OZ Racing Superlegarra with 17" 215-45-ZR17 tires.

Brakes: Baer Big Brake kit with stainless lines, different pads, etc.

Suspension: Ground control (?) coilovers with Koni yellow adjustable shocks. Currently set all the way on high for winter driving, previous setting was on "Ant killer".

Bracing: Strut tower brace (brand unknown) and rear strut brace.

Issues:
#1. When accelerating quite BRISKLY (WOT) from a stop sign, if not touching steering wheel will turn VERY sharp and car swerves VERY violently towards one side of road or another. This happens in 1st or 2nd gear in the higher RPM's and orientation is random. When doing "hands on" driving, can feel a definete pull one side or another and requires Incredible Hulk arms to keep driving straight.

#2. When taking a sharp turn from a dead stop, hear a grinding like metal on metal. Problem doesn't seem to exist at higher speeds nor does it seem to exist in reverse. Only forward gears (that I know of).

Troubleshooting steps at this point:
General alignment *IS* off, but not bad enough where it would swerve that bad at idle-80% throttle. Obviously I jacked up car and checked for brake dragging, wheels rubbing, etc. Only weird thing is that when you spin the wheel while in air, it makes slight creaking noise, but could be within trans, bearings, anything, etc.

OK. My GUESSES at this point are:

1. The torque steer is overcoming the LSD and causing ONE wheel to spin while the other isn't. This presents a problem since the LSD should be "catching up", making them both spin SOMEWHERE near the same speed?

2. The alignment is so off that it is moving that direction under chassis flex. I have wondered if I have a bad motor mount/trans mount, causing entire drivetrain to twist, causing misalignment while under WOT.

3. The last theory I can think of is that the trans or LSD are not doing their jobs or it is hindering one or the other. Something is defintely wrong and if not treated could get worse. These problems did NOT occur with stock motor, but only drove w/ 2.5L for about 2 months. Never really got a chance to get on it much and never noticed grinding noises.

Any thoughts?

Dan





1. I t sounds as if the lsd is not working who installed it??

2. It sounds like a wheel bearing that is worn out. They seam to wear every 50,000 miles. Wheel bearing early failure where it is only at turing it grinds. If it gets really worn it eventually allways grinds.

3. I beleive u have enourmous amount of torque steer. The lsd is not doing its job or something with the shafts. Did u replace your axels? Maybe look at that first. hmm it could be that the axels could be casuing both these problems?


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Make sure the engine is mounted correctly and centered. Another CEG'er had stripped his axle shaft from that! (Try posting in 3.0 forum, others there have your LS diff.) I have read the new and very nice Acura TL has some odd torque steer with a limited slip, sounds similar to what you get. Regular torque steer is to the right (my SHO). Alignment is really important, too much toe out will make your car loose and less stable. The 3.0 is stronger torque, (which you should be enjoying!)

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I have the same problem with the jerking, seems as if its only in 2nd gear. Though it doesnt seem as violent as he says his is. Though sometimes it will jerk the wheel hard, though not too hard to keep strait.

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I installed the LSD diff, didn't think you COULD screw it up, how could you put it in wrong?

Wheel bearing is what I was suspecting too. I have heard it's a huge pain to do, but I'll look into it.

I did NOT replace the axles. They are stock SVT. I don't know what this would do but I could look into this too.

I will get an alignment when I get my Blizzaks put on, that should be done anyway.

Dan

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wheel bearings (front) are a matter of pulling the hub, having the old pressed out, and new pressed in
OR
pulling the hub and swapping the hub for another hub with a new bearing already in it.

Bearings are abour $60. (plus one hour labor to press old/new) ($50-$70??)

hubs are about $140.00 with the bearing already in there from Steve at Tousley Ford. or $50 from Stazi (CEG member) for a limited time.


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Could bad bearings cause the axles to cause my car to swerve badly?

Dan

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They would have to be very wobbly, I haven't experienced that.

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Anyone else got any advice?

Dan

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I was thinking about this the other night while driving home, and then I was enlightened. Actually my car just decided to fess up ad tell me what might be your bug. It was raining hard and all of a sudden I lost steering and my car started to pull to one side. I had to fight it to keep going straight while I pulled over.

Could it be that your serpentine belt is slipping when accelerating hard and as a result you lose your power steering?

I'll be buying a new belt tonight.


'96 Mercury Mystique GS 2.5L Auto '99 Honda Passport EX 3.2 4WD
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