Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting EGR Issue - Finally ID prob

haha I new that list was hiding somewhere thanks Tony. I guess its back to advanced again to have my codes read. Poor Tour I just want it to run right. I don't even mind spending the money on the DPFE sensor, if that is the problem.

argh! I had the codes read again, and I got the same P1000 code. Could this mean that my ECU is not running the dianogistic tests? or does it mean that the reader doesn't have a complete dianogists test? I'm lost on the meaning of this code.


I'm thinking about pulling the IAC this afternoon and checking my trubendz for any leak. I know that will effect the idle, but an exhaust leak shouldn't cause the car to stall.

If you noticed my post about the IAC, I've had it off and I've cleaned it. I pulled the car out of the garage and let it run for a little while. The idle held steady at 1000rpm. Previously if I would run the revs up and let off the gas the car would fall to ~600rpm. Now it only dropped to a little under 1000 so ~900-950rpm. It came back up immediately.

I don't understand how such a small amount of crap could effect the idle. Unless, like my original thought, the solenoid is just dried out and the TB cleaner absorbed into it. I'll have to watch my idle tomorrow. I'm glad I'll be back on tuesday night already from school so I should have time to test it out.

I'm still debating on buying the DPFE sensor. It does seem from other posts the egr clog, you unclog them, the DPFE dies, and in the long process the pre-cats get clogged(ask TourDeForce).

Does anyone have any information on the DPFE sensor and how it works? could it be like the MAF sensor and slowly become dirty/corroided over time? Hope someone has some answers!

I'm kinda thinking as the systems are seperate, they just lead to chaos in the emissions. The DPFE regulates the EGR, the EGR goes nucking futs when the passages get clogged. So when the EGR is nucking futz, the DPFE is going WTF? Then the pre-cats develope lung cancer from second-hand emissions, then the whole car just blows up and dies. lol Its been a long day and I feel better for posting that.

Is it might not be that drastic, but that is at least my thoughts.

Some good news today. The idle ran better. It stayed around 1000 and didn't drop like it was going to stall. It dropped to around 800 when I turned on the defroster, but then it climbed back up almost immediately. I also noticed that once the car is warm the idle is at 750-800, but now it doesn't sound like it is stalling it just stays at a steady spot. Is that normal idle for a warm duratec?

Maybe I need to let the batt sit unconnected so the ECU resets and it finds the idle again. Any comments?

well still have a problem. I went to pull the tour into the garage this morning and the car would not stay in idle. It would only stall. I had to stay on the gas for 3 minutes and even then it was stalling out. I basically had to launch into reverse.

possible factors:
its 27 Degress outside (started up fine in worse)
recently cleaned IAC valve
recently cleaned MAF
squirel continues to take refudge on top of my manifold
recently installed trubendz exhaust

not problem:
battery (less then year old)

Other concerns:
strange grinding noise from passanger side of block

no its the idle...

I went to leave work tonight and the idle stayed high, then as soon as it tried to drop slightly the rpms dove. I hit the gas fast enough so it wouldn't stall. I'm just gonna have to order a new IAC.

Well I finally gave in. I stopped at Advanced Auto today and bought the IAC valve. On the positive side they had it instock!!!! That completely caught me offguard. The thing that pisses me off is that I have my new digital Camera and the batteries are dead after taking a few shots of the IAC. I wanted to get some pics together, but I guess I can't now.

One thing I noticed is that my old IAC valve had a spring in it. The replacement one does not.

Anyone have a clue?