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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578 |
Originally posted by vpogv:
Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack (from inside the car)
Unsure what you mean by this one, the rest of it has already been done
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Well the subframe isn't going anywhere w/o the steering disconnected. Go up under the dash and look where the steering goes through the floor. You need a 10mm to remove the bolt and then swing the lock piece up.
The bottom of the radiator needs to be unbolted after you secure the top of it to the top of the front clip. See the hole in the top of each guide? That's what they're there for. Hang the rad with some clothes hanger or nail.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,578 |
Originally posted by todras:
Well the subframe isn't going anywhere w/o the steering disconnected. Go up under the dash and look where the steering goes through the floor. You need a 10mm to remove the bolt and then swing the lock piece up.
The bottom of the radiator needs to be unbolted after you secure the top of it to the top of the front clip. See the hole in the top of each guide? That's what they're there for. Hang the rad with some clothes hanger or nail.
The radiator has already been taken care of, the only two things I have to do now is take off the power steering line from the rack as well as the steering shaft I guess. I took off the 10mm but have no idea what to do now/if i should lower the subframe
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115 |
Just unbolt the 10mm bolt and then seperate the steering rack from from the shaft. Don't even mess with the PS lines. Leave the passenger side subframe bolts in about 5 turns and drop the drivers side.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 227
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 227 |
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 115 |
Originally posted by TRicker:
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
It was posted within one of those links that you can just lower the subframe enough to move the trans over a bit and do the clutch. The downside is there is limited space to work in and when you are 2 bolts away from dropping the one side of the subframe, why now just spend 5 min to give yourself room to work and see.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by TRicker:
can i just drop half the subframe, pull the tranny out far enough to pop my new clutch on, and slap it together? i know the subframe has to be dropped so the end of the tranny can slide out a few inches but really, that shouldnt be all that hard, right?
Yes go ahead and do that. Works great. That's why nothing in the thread recommends doing that since it WON'T WORK. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Also if you have the clutch out I hope you're replaceing the throw out bearing unless you replaced it out 30k ago. How are you going to tq down the pressure plate? The flywheel has to come off to resurfaced as well. The brightness around here has become a lot dimmer lately.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 227
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 227 |
i have half the subframe lowered right now, and the tranny bolts are out. the mounts have been completely removed. everything is off that should be except for the starter. would this keep the tranny attatched to the engine? i am having trouble prying the trans away from the block. i called blackcoog (he does alot of swaps) and he said i should have 7 trans bolts out (i do) he also says that the driver side axle should pull right out since i unbolted the lower A arm. he says the pass. side should pull right out without much problem, if i leave the halfshaft in the trans. the trans prys out atbout 1/4" off the motor but seems to be stuck on top. would the starter hold it on?
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Remove the starter ... there is a LIP IIRC that is probably hanging you up. Have you tried to lift the trans up and pull at the same time?
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