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Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
Just carve out the old rubber and fill it with new 94A poly.




Please explain to me how you "carve" out the rubber.....

You don't need the FDA urethane and you won't notice the difference between 94A and 88A, if anything fill it with 80A or 60A "flexible urethane" listed along with the 94A.

You're going to have to give up some ride comfort if you want the wheel hop and whatnot to stop, plain and simple.

Use Duct tape to seal off the other end when you fill it, and hope it doesn't take too long for it to seep in to the cavity, as it'll begin to gel in about 10 minutes.

Also, if you mix for ANY less than the recommended 2 minutes, don't be surprised when it doesn't cure right away and your car sits for another 2 days.

If you have any questions please feel free to PM me, I�d rather have you do it right on your own and not buy my mount, than come to me later after something gets messed up.

I'm not trying to be an ass about this whole thing, but I�ve seen a lot more mounts and worked with more poly than anyone on this board....guaranteed.





I took out the mount and worked on it while watching some TV. You basically get some big ass cutting pliers and cut away at the holes. Start holding on to the cut chunks and use your muscles to pry off the rubber. Once you get a good amount off, you can pull the center shaft and surrounding rubber out of the mount. Once it is out it is easier to cut off the rubber, and you are left with a center shaft covered in rubber. get a box cutter or something with a blade and carve the rubber off of the metal shaft. Clean it up as best you can and set it in the mount. Duct tape one side with mutiple layers. A good bunch a duct tape will hold the shaft in the middle and keep any poly from leaking out. I bought 90A poly, but If I had another chance I would redo it in 60A or 80A. The 90A dries hard as a rock. Mix your two parts that come for the poly very well. Pour the liquid poly into your mount and wait five minutes for it to set. Keep an eye on it so that the center metal shaft does not move around and harden at an akward angle. After five to ten minutes it is hard enough to leave alone. Let it cure for two days and reinstall. All done, $30, super easy. All it takes is some time to get the rubber out. You could heat it and melt it out, but I try to avoid playing with fire. Your only real loss of time is getting the rubber out.


Originally posted by Who the F are You?:
does your family tree not have any branches on it?


99SVT 235hp @ 6550rpm 212tq @ 5350rpm
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Actually the ride quality isnt too bad compared to the stock piece. I noticed a little more vibration, but nothing I couldnt tolerate.
-tropictour


2000 Contour SVT Tropic Green SHO Shop CAI Bassani 1999 Contour SE BAT Kit
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Originally posted by tropictour:
Actually the ride quality isnt too bad compared to the stock piece. I noticed a little more vibration, but nothing I couldnt tolerate.
-tropictour




i've only had 2 people out of 50 return the mount because they felt there was too much NVH.


99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84 Totaled 02/12/06 99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88 Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06 Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle 90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Yeah you notice it the first couple of times you start the car, but then it seems normal.
-tropictour


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I originally filled both of my mounts with 94a. I removed them so I can carve out the factory rubber (+ 94a) so I can fill it completely with 94a. I perferated the now solid rubber with a drill, then grabbed each perferated section with needlenose, then pliers. It was a major PITA, as the 94a bound to the mount housing. And when drilling, I knew when I was drilling through the rubber or the urethane... big difference! After I removed enough material to remove the rubber+shaft assembly, I used a hacksaw to cut big chunks out. After I got in close to the shaft core, I used a combo of dremel and file. Major pain... If I had air tools, it probably would have been faster. Now I really wish I just took the time initially, and gutted it instead of just filling it.

Oh, contrary to what some people have said here about filling the rear mount... it was absolutely solid -- no gaps or air pockets ANYWHERE!

I'm now beginning to not want to gut and completely fill the front restrictor. Is the solid front vs filled front as beneficial as the solid rear vs filled rear?


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I started with just the rear on my car atx by the way, nvh got noticably worse, then I did the other two, on the atx the mount on the tranny is very similar to the role restictors, now with all three it is much beter, I hardly notice anything except for the power geting to the ground much better, I can chirp the tires when I hit 2nd gear.


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Thanks for the info and the honesty josh. I have no doubt that it will be more work than I think it is. One of the main factors in this adventure is the money, the other is the NVH of using the 94A. With the winters I get, I may as well machine some hockey pucks and use that as mounts. I'll probably get the 80A then. You know what would really help ?? If I knew what the firmness of the stock piece was, then I'd have something to compare against. Off to McMaster I go !!


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I'd seriously trust josh in this.. he has dealed with more motor mounts than the average CEG'er will in there entire life.. even on my next car.. i'm making him do my mounts


Mark 1998 T-Red SVT -Needs more Go 1999 Light Prairie Tan, Se Zetec www.cardomain.com/id/tour4reak
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Off the cuff, i'ld put the stock mount around 55A.....

The 80A is what i used to do a set of completely poly 2-bolt LCA's that are awaiting road testing, it's probobly the right choice for you.

McMaster Carr P#:

8644K11

Josh


99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84 Totaled 02/12/06 99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88 Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06 Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle 90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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