Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle transaxle fluid change in an svt

First off i'd like to thank everyone in this forum for all your help. Ok heres my question, what are the symptoms and what will a transaxle fluid change help with? I bought the
ATF+3 Chrysler spec'ed ATF, how often will I need to change this, the article says it will require more frequent changes, i've also been looking for the little pump that attaches to the bottle, the only thing I could find was an on off spout, is this the right thing for the job. again thanx for any help.

Mostly you will want to do a manual trans fluid change just because you want to get the old fluid out with any wear metals that are suspended in it. Every 30,000 miles is a reasonable change interval.

You will probably notice smoother shifting with the ATF+3 (I did). It has a higher level of friction modifier already in it so you do not want to add any more.

The pump I have was purchased from a parts store. I don't remember if it was Pep Boys or Kragen. It is made by Sta Lube. It fits the older style (small mouth) oil quart bottle.

Some have used a funnel from above with a hose extension to fill it instead. If you can figue out how to route the hose, I would recommend it. The pump is a hassle. You may need to remove the battery or the air filter ducting for access from above.

Here is a link to the pinned note at the top of this forum about changing manual trans fluid. You will probably find it helpful.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=960062&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

And here is the link to the FAQ on the same topic. Follow the links for photos that will help.

http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=22

Great, thanx for the help. I am noticing a couple of problems that i'm hoping this will fix. 1st gear and reverse are a little sticky if the car is not moving, if the car is rolling its fine. The other problem i'm noticing may or may not have to do with the transmission. When cornering I notice a rubbing sound, at first I thought it was the tires rubbing on the front springs, but if I take it out of gear and coast, the sound disappears.

I don't know about the rubbing sound, but you may want to try flushing your clutch (and brake) fluid and carefully bleeding your clutch as well as changing the fluid to make sure that the clutch hydraulic linkage is allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

Do the trans fluid change first and see it it helps. If you still have trouble shifting change the clutch fluid. By the way, you may never completely get rid of that. Most manual transmissions shift better if you are slightly rolling. I have not driven your car so I can't say if what you are feeling is normal.

i also have the same symptons in my 98CSVT. 1st and reverse can be a pistol some times. i did the tranny fluid flush and added fords honey synthetic. the shifts feel no different than before. i am now going to add xl-3 friction modifier to see if that helps. i am guessing it is just wear on the trans. how many miles are on the car? i just rolled over 70k on mine.

I recommend not adding the friction modifier, especially to that ford honey.

Well. If that honey is so darn good then why should we have to add anything? All the FM is doing is breaking down a percentage of the fluid and in so doing increasing the friction for things like synchros. I'm guessing this would reduce its protective capability? On that note, if you have to start using friction modifier wouldn't it be better to just use the mobile1 + FM and call it a day? Most people ran a lot of miles with that combo and didn't have too many issues.
I think if I were up way up north in really cold temps (cold to me) I'd run straight ATF and down here it is really a toss up.

That's the point. Neither of us know what the right EP additives are. The ford FM modifiers may not even be extreme pressure additives. The don't call it EP, the call it FM. Not really the same thing.
We agree that the right blend of oils and pressure additives is the goal. This is what MTL is supposed to be and what Ford Honey is supposed to be.
I think it would be bad advice to add friction modifier to a lubricant when you have no idea of the compatibility and when you could just change the lubricant to one that is more suitable under different temperatures and driving conditions.

I saw what the FM did to the Mercon ATF that I put in my transmission. The stuff was putrid after only 30 days of driving, stinky, dark and full of metal... and I only used two ounces. Maybe it works fine in Mobile 1 but it came very close to ruining my Torsen differential.
Adding FM to your lubricant may turn out ok, but it is no better than choosing a lube off the shelf that no one has used and guessing at the results.