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i was wondering what different technic's there were for removing the orange reflecters out of headlight assembly's with-out seperating the lense from assembly?? 
98 T-RED SVT De-Badged Bassani Xhaust(uncorked) H-R Springs B.A.T. Struts Ford Blue Brake Calipers Removed Door Ding Guards Matching Vinyl on F/Windshield Vinyl Blackout between front and back windows Alpine 7871, Punch 55, 2 12" JL W3 altered k-n filter 885's Foglight Mod B&M Short Throw Painted vents & misc. int. parts clear corners and bulbs Born on 6/15/98 Born @ KC Assembly Plant #6438 of 6535 A.K.A. The ANTI-RICE SUPERCAR
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Do a search for clear corners, I thought there was a how to in the FAQ's but I don't see it.
00 Audi S4 Silver and Black (Bone stock)
98 Toreador Red SVT #742/6535 (Totalled)
KKM induction,Sho-Shop Y pipe, removed resonator, Superchip, B&M Short Shifter, Fog Light Fix 885 Fogs, Xenon Super Whites Clear Corners w/clear bulbs Removed Door Dings, TH Fix, ADR Phase II white 17s and Kumho rubber
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I just did this today. Here's the instructions I used. http://www.geocities.com/sweetsvt99/mods/#headlamp There may be some regulations pertaining to clear corners where you live though.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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thanx man, much appreciated 
98 T-RED SVT De-Badged Bassani Xhaust(uncorked) H-R Springs B.A.T. Struts Ford Blue Brake Calipers Removed Door Ding Guards Matching Vinyl on F/Windshield Vinyl Blackout between front and back windows Alpine 7871, Punch 55, 2 12" JL W3 altered k-n filter 885's Foglight Mod B&M Short Throw Painted vents & misc. int. parts clear corners and bulbs Born on 6/15/98 Born @ KC Assembly Plant #6438 of 6535 A.K.A. The ANTI-RICE SUPERCAR
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I removed mine without any drilling/cutting whatsoever...
Eric it took me all of 20 minutes for both..
First I would like to congratulate my 2002 "The Perfect Storm" undefeated National Champions MIAMI HURRICANES*1999 Ford Contour SVT #206 00 SVT motor with Return fuel*Black-Tan*Cold Air Intake with 6" S&B Funnel Ram*Sho-shop off road y*Brullen Cat-Back 3.5" slant tips no res*Unorthodox racing crank pulley*Lotec Guage pod with Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure and Voltage*17" Image Tuners*215/40 Falken Ziex's* B/M Short Shifter*Nokya 9006/9005 80w/100w Xenon's*JSP wing*BNM White Faced HVAC*Custom svt emblemed rear*Bosch +4's*H/R springs*Euro Sidemarkers. Eric@ritterpenusa.com Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Originally posted by fast4drsvt: I removed mine without any drilling/cutting whatsoever...
Eric it took me all of 20 minutes for both.. Hmm....Please explain? 
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What I did was get a long thin flat screwdriver, wrap the tip in electrical tape, or some kind of protection as to not scratch the inside of the lens or any other part. Insert the screwdriver where the amber light twists into. Then try to get at the part of the amber reflector where it sticks out..just poke at it until it snaps.. it helps of you could get a good grip on the reflector and push up as it releases from the two mounthing tabs at the bottom. Crush the reflector into as many large pieces as you can as to get it out throught the hole where the amber light goes in using long needle nose pliers. Do not crush the reflector into small pieces as it would be hard to collect all the pieces out of the housing, just enough to get them out of the entrance of the blinker amber light. Have patience and a small powerful vacuum will help also. My two headlights took a total of 45 mimutes ..and most of that time was trying to figure out how to do it to begin with. If I couldn;t do it without drilling or etc I decided not to do it at all...but luckily I found a way.
Thanks Eric
First I would like to congratulate my 2002 "The Perfect Storm" undefeated National Champions MIAMI HURRICANES*1999 Ford Contour SVT #206 00 SVT motor with Return fuel*Black-Tan*Cold Air Intake with 6" S&B Funnel Ram*Sho-shop off road y*Brullen Cat-Back 3.5" slant tips no res*Unorthodox racing crank pulley*Lotec Guage pod with Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure and Voltage*17" Image Tuners*215/40 Falken Ziex's* B/M Short Shifter*Nokya 9006/9005 80w/100w Xenon's*JSP wing*BNM White Faced HVAC*Custom svt emblemed rear*Bosch +4's*H/R springs*Euro Sidemarkers. Eric@ritterpenusa.com Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.
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This sounds like an OK technique... FWIW I did mine drilling the three holes and plugged them with a dab of bathtub silicone... 'been two years now and no problem.
Agreed on the "breaking" part though, try to avoid creating small orange particles... It gets stuck in the corners and is a PITA to take out.
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Did you guys have to install yellow bubs after you were done? I never looked at mine. I think I am going to try it.
Yankeyspeed: American power and ingenuity 95 SE -Stock enough Yeah my car has a baby seat, its still fast.
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The car comes with yellow bulbs.. It looks nicer in my opinion with clear whites.. but I don;t like the white bliking as much as the yellow.. I wish there were some white clear bulbs that blinked yellow. I tried Catz signal blinker which looks white but blinks yellow..they are KRAP! They blink fast and then slow sometimes..and the light output isn;t anywhere close to stock levels..
Eric
First I would like to congratulate my 2002 "The Perfect Storm" undefeated National Champions MIAMI HURRICANES*1999 Ford Contour SVT #206 00 SVT motor with Return fuel*Black-Tan*Cold Air Intake with 6" S&B Funnel Ram*Sho-shop off road y*Brullen Cat-Back 3.5" slant tips no res*Unorthodox racing crank pulley*Lotec Guage pod with Air/Fuel, Oil Pressure and Voltage*17" Image Tuners*215/40 Falken Ziex's* B/M Short Shifter*Nokya 9006/9005 80w/100w Xenon's*JSP wing*BNM White Faced HVAC*Custom svt emblemed rear*Bosch +4's*H/R springs*Euro Sidemarkers. Eric@ritterpenusa.com Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel.
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