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Joined: Aug 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Yeah, do that.
That tapered portion that sort of looks like a hat is threaded into the damper hub. YOU can cut vertically directly into it at two angles until you get a 20 degree slice out of it. Don't worry about hitting the damper hub with the cut.
When that wedge shaped section comes out you should see the damper retaining bolt. The use a pipe wrench and it should come out very easy(right hand).
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
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Well I tackled this today, took about an hour of cutting (including a trip to buy a new cut-off wheel) but the damn thing is finally off! Thanks a lot for the help warmonger...
2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
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Cool. I guess five minutes was a bit conservative wasn't it? 
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9
Newbie
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Newbie
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Well I tackled this today, took about an hour of cutting (including a trip to buy a new cut-off wheel) but the damn thing is finally off! Thanks a lot for the help warmonger...
Just found this site, and just want to say you are not the only one currently having this problem. I am working on my project Sable with a 3L Duratec and stuck at the same problem. Exact same problem. Only difference my engine is still in the car.
So did you grind off the whole cover? Any pics to show the final results?
Any particulars would help me along with this problem.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2004
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Originally posted by streamrichard:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Well I tackled this today, took about an hour of cutting (including a trip to buy a new cut-off wheel) but the damn thing is finally off! Thanks a lot for the help warmonger...
Just found this site, and just want to say you are not the only one currently having this problem. I am working on my project Sable with a 3L Duratec and stuck at the same problem. Exact same problem. Only difference my engine is still in the car.
So did you grind off the whole cover? Any pics to show the final results?
Any particulars would help me along with this problem.
Look at the pics at the beginning of the thread...
I used a cut-off tool to chop off the front of the damper where the pully was attatched. I cut it off right before the hex. I tried to loosen it again, didn't work. So, i used the cut-off again and cut all the way to about 1/4 to 1/2 to where the threads start to turn in. Then I cut an x, and then I cut each of the those 4 pieces into 2. So now I had about 8 slices of pie. Just make sure when you cut the slices, you make it all the way through the damper bolt. There is actually a hollow space back there and another bolt inside. If the little pieces of pie wont fall out, try cutting along the outside of them with the cut off, and they should fall off. I'll put a pic up of what it looks like with the damper out in a minute.
The black stuff in the hole is some poorly spreaded grease... 
2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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Veteran CEG\'er
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OffroadSVT (bill) I hope this post brings a smile to your face. Quick story : When i helped him w/ his 3.0, we had to use a pipe wrench and 5ft breaker bar to get it off!!! I still have it in my tool box a little momento (sp?) -Tim 
Tim
Ex - ContourPower
2001 Saab 9-3 Viggen
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Newbie
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Newbie
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Thanks the pics are great help as I am doing a blown head gasket on my tec and have been stuck at this spot to get the timing cover off to get to the chains.
This may sound lousy, but I rejoiced when I saw somebody else having this problem as when I posted on the Taurus site, there wasn't anybody who had this specific problem. So I felt I was doing something wrong.
Once again thanks.
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That black stuff should just be sealant the factory uses to seal the keyway against oil leakage since the other side of the damper is under liquid oil sheeting.
Anyway, I literally only cut a 30 degree angle into the side of the damper hub and hub outer bolt where the threads are, then across the bottom of it so that the piece just fell out and I could look directly in. THen it literally came loose with the first little bit of effort from the pipe wrench and I unthreaded it the rest of the way by hand(with gloves on). So in my case it was a total of three cuts. Two at a somewhere around 30 degree angle that were vertical to the damper, then one kind of parallel to remove the piece of pie.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally posted by warmonger:
That black stuff should just be sealant the factory uses to seal the keyway against oil leakage since the other side of the damper is under liquid oil sheeting.
Anyway, I literally only cut a 30 degree angle into the side of the damper hub and hub outer bolt where the threads are, then across the bottom of it so that the piece just fell out and I could look directly in. THen it literally came loose with the first little bit of effort from the pipe wrench and I unthreaded it the rest of the way by hand(with gloves on). So in my case it was a total of three cuts. Two at a somewhere around 30 degree angle that were vertical to the damper, then one kind of parallel to remove the piece of pie.
What type of cutoff tool? Electric Dremel with 3" cutoff or 4" air pnuematic cutoff?
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
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A Dremel?!!!!! So next year. LOL! I hope a pneumatic cut off wheel or an electric one. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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