Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension Official Ford preloading how to??

I just had my rear subframe worked on and found out that the mechanic didn't "preload" the bushings. This procedure is described in the "rear suspension clunk" thread, but my mechanic wants the Ford write up or whatever on how to do it. Does anybody know where I can find this, or how to get it from the Ford service manual or anything?

TIA

From what i understand all it means is that before tightening all the rubber bushings, you let the car down so that it's at the equilibrium position (at the ride height that it will be at when parked on all 4 tires)...then tighten the bushings so that they are not loaded at this position.

I did it when i installed the BAT kit, but it was tough to fit my big arse under the car...ramps might help out.


...At least i think that's what you're talking about???

yes, when ever you replace bushing you need to have the car at ride height, ie on the ground before tightening all the bolts up. this does not induce a stress in the bushing from the weight of the vehicle

1) I will have about 600-1000 miles on the car since the subframe has been redone and put back on without preloading the bushings. Has the damage already been done or is it alright to loosen it up a little and do it properly?

2)Would it be ok to put it on the lift and only raise it up an inch to do it, or does it definately need to be at normal ride height?

3)Also, I just had the car aligned, will i need to get it re-aligned after preloading the bushings?

Thanks for the "how-to". Heck I just think I'll do it myself when I go home this weekend and change the sway bar bushings.

I beleive Todd's Hot Garage CD, has details on it.

-Andy

Most likely.

I think I'm just going to do it myself...which bolts do I need to do? I'm assuming is the 4 on the rear subframe and and the bolts on the rear control arms (to the subframe). Anything on the front?

No, do not loosen the ones on the subframe. Only those bolts where the control arms connect to the wheel hub assembly.
There should be 3 total per side.

Assuming the back of the car is up on jackstands with the wheels about one inch off the ground (front not necessary to be off the ground):
Put a small floorjack under the lowest point of the control arm and jack up the wheel/hub until it is sitting about the right height in the wheel well. Wheels can be off for this and you can get to the bolts easier.

There is one bolt and a big washer on the rear control arm. Loosen this one, let the bushing relax (happens as soon as the bolt loosens) then retighten it.
The trailing arm (I think its called that) has the bolt that goes through a u-bracket. It is also the lowest part of the hub assembly. Loosen this then retighten.
The front control arm (the one with the rubber pieces in it) is bolted through the control arm with a bolt and a nut. Loosen these, retighten.

Thats it. If there was tension in the bushing you can see it turn when the torque is released.