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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854 |
i used dynamat everywhere it could be seen (bottom of the trunklid, etc. and then some cheap sheet sound deadener i bought online for under the carpets, rear seat, inside doors, etc.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,028
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,028 |
Originally posted by TGO: i used dynamat everywhere it could be seen (bottom of the trunklid, etc. and then some cheap sheet sound deadener i bought online for under the carpets, rear seat, inside doors, etc.
Afraid of looking cheap are we?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854 |
yeah it was for aesthetic's only.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 853
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 853 |
I used fatmat, cheap and does its job
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,978
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,978 |
I put down whatever they sell at circuit city. I wasn't going to put any down, but when I pulled my carpet out to run wires for amps, I decided what the hell and put it in. I still need to do the doors and the trunk sometime.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 299
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 299 |
can anybody explain how to they installed their sound dampers into the doors? did you take all that other foam out or what?
98' Black SVT
Build #1915 of 6535
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,076
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,076 |
Originally posted by hot3dog3lucky3: can anybody explain how to they installed their sound dampers into the doors? did you take all that other foam out or what?
I use underbody coating, just removed the foam and sprayed it in. About 1-1.5 cans per door (layers of course)
2000 SVT Black/Tan #1633/2150 (a few mods)
Alpine: CDA-9835, MRV-F540, MRD-M550
PG: TANTRUM-X 6.5 COMP all around.
Some people wear Superman pajamas. Superman wears Chuck Norris pajamas.
CEL currently: Off
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016 |
I took (cut) the foam out, then applied the dampener, then re-applied the foam. As an FYI, it made such a great improvement. I recommend it to everyone. It's time consuming... but worth every minute.
~Eric
2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150
HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers
2003 Silverstone Z
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789
I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
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I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789 |
For doors, i recommend applying a layer of damping material to the inside of the outer door skin. Next, plug any holes that you can on the inner door panels, with something like 1/4" ply or hardboard using liquid nails or silicone to apply. Then put a layer of damping material over the entire cabin side of the inner door panels. Next, put a layer of something like carpet foam between the door panel and the inner door frame. what you have is a multilayer sound deadening system that goes like thsi metal, dynamat, air, metal, dynamat, foam, plastic. Damping material reduces vibrations, but does little to reduce road noise. To reduce road noise, a change in impedance is required which is where the layers comes into play. You could probably go as far as trying to implement some sort of constrained layer damping but I don't know where to begin going into that, or using it effecitvely in a car.
"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit"
-Mitch Hedberg
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016 |
I agree with what you just said, although I have a couple concerns. 1. Pugging any holes with anything permanent would be horrible if you ever needed to get to the window stuff. 2. The carpet foam is great, but holds moisture. I understant that the deadener material on the inside door panel should stop alot of moisture, but it would still be a major concern to me. Hense eD came out with this When I did mine, I did as you said, layer the outside panel as much as I could, skipped the hole filler thing, pulled all wires from the panel then put down a layer of dynomat type deadener covering the entire inner panel. The Teklite just came out, so I'll eventually get that (once winter passes) to put on the inside of the plastic door panel and put a nice layer of paintable deadener over the current tar stuff. I'd love to do under the carpet, but again, that'll be a spring/summer project. ~Eric
2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150
HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers
2003 Silverstone Z
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