Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 5 1 2 3 4 5
#1399385 10/02/05 03:53 AM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
T
TGO Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
T
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
i used dynamat everywhere it could be seen (bottom of the trunklid, etc. and then some cheap sheet sound deadener i bought online for under the carpets, rear seat, inside doors, etc.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
#1399386 10/02/05 04:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,028
W
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
W
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,028
Originally posted by TGO:
i used dynamat everywhere it could be seen (bottom of the trunklid, etc. and then some cheap sheet sound deadener i bought online for under the carpets, rear seat, inside doors, etc.




Afraid of looking cheap are we?


www.geocities.com/jesusfr7282000 Biblical principles work, there are no exceptions. 99 Suburban 03 Silverado 70 Skylark 79 Electra
#1399387 10/02/05 06:10 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
T
TGO Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
T
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
yeah it was for aesthetic's only.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
#1399388 10/02/05 07:54 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 853
B
Veteran CEG\'er
Offline
Veteran CEG\'er
B
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 853
I used fatmat, cheap and does its job


98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998 WR Headers GMK CAI Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods L.E.D. tail lights in the works
#1399389 10/02/05 08:03 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,978
T
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
T
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,978
I put down whatever they sell at circuit city. I wasn't going to put any down, but when I pulled my carpet out to run wires for amps, I decided what the hell and put it in. I still need to do the doors and the trunk sometime.

#1399390 11/28/05 01:57 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 299
J
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
J
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 299
can anybody explain how to they installed their sound dampers into the doors? did you take all that other foam out or what?


98' Black SVT Build #1915 of 6535
#1399391 11/28/05 02:24 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,076
C
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
C
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,076
Originally posted by hot3dog3lucky3:
can anybody explain how to they installed their sound dampers into the doors? did you take all that other foam out or what?


I use underbody coating, just removed the foam and sprayed it in. About 1-1.5 cans per door (layers of course)


2000 SVT Black/Tan #1633/2150 (a few mods) Alpine: CDA-9835, MRV-F540, MRD-M550 PG: TANTRUM-X 6.5 COMP all around. Some people wear Superman pajamas. Superman wears Chuck Norris pajamas. CEL currently: Off
#1399392 11/29/05 06:21 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
E
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
E
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
I took (cut) the foam out, then applied the dampener, then re-applied the foam. As an FYI, it made such a great improvement. I recommend it to everyone. It's time consuming... but worth every minute.

~Eric


2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150 HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers 2003 Silverstone Z
#1399393 12/07/05 05:42 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789
D
I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
Offline
I feel Guilty, Oh so guilty
D
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,789
For doors, i recommend applying a layer of damping material to the inside of the outer door skin. Next, plug any holes that you can on the inner door panels, with something like 1/4" ply or hardboard using liquid nails or silicone to apply. Then put a layer of damping material over the entire cabin side of the inner door panels. Next, put a layer of something like carpet foam between the door panel and the inner door frame. what you have is a multilayer sound deadening system that goes like thsi metal, dynamat, air, metal, dynamat, foam, plastic. Damping material reduces vibrations, but does little to reduce road noise. To reduce road noise, a change in impedance is required which is where the layers comes into play. You could probably go as far as trying to implement some sort of constrained layer damping but I don't know where to begin going into that, or using it effecitvely in a car.


"If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit" -Mitch Hedberg
#1399394 12/07/05 10:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
E
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
E
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,016
I agree with what you just said, although I have a couple concerns.

1. Pugging any holes with anything permanent would be horrible if you ever needed to get to the window stuff.

2. The carpet foam is great, but holds moisture. I understant that the deadener material on the inside door panel should stop alot of moisture, but it would still be a major concern to me. Hense eD came out with this

When I did mine, I did as you said, layer the outside panel as much as I could, skipped the hole filler thing, pulled all wires from the panel then put down a layer of dynomat type deadener covering the entire inner panel. The Teklite just came out, so I'll eventually get that (once winter passes) to put on the inside of the plastic door panel and put a nice layer of paintable deadener over the current tar stuff. I'd love to do under the carpet, but again, that'll be a spring/summer project.

~Eric


2000 CSVT Silver Frost: #942 of 2150 HID Projectors and Fog Light Mod, Optomized TB, MSDS headers 2003 Silverstone Z
Page 2 of 5 1 2 3 4 5

Moderated by  dnewma04_dup1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5