|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
|
OP
CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
95 Contour 2.5L
On occasion when trying to start the car, the starter will not crank over. lights, radio working, etc. but when you turn the key, nothing dead. Wait a couple of minutes and then it starts fine. I switched around the relays in the engine compartment. I have pulled the interior ignition relay and am trying to check it. I can't find any ohm measurement specs for the relay. Does anyone know what the resistance should measure to? I am getting 78k ohms across pin 1 and 2.
Thanks,
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
|
|
Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
Not sure is pin 1 and 2 are NO or NC..
if NO then that is fine 78K ohms is a huge resistance, aka open.
if its a NC junction, you have a problem.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
|
|
OP
CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Ray,
These two pins show a resistor on the schematic. the circuit in this relay should be closed. The other two pins are open and show no resistance, etc.
I can't find anyting on alldata, etc that will tell me how to test the relay...
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12 |
IS THE SOLENOID OPERATING PROPERLY. NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH WORKING CORRECTLY... JUST A FEW SUGGESTIONS
98' Contour SE 2.5L
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
|
|
New CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 35 |
Since your problem is 'intermitant', any checks that you do while the car is starting are going to check good, so keep that in mind. Relays that only don't work 'somtimes' will always check good if you just check resistance across the terminals, and you have to apply power to the coil side of the relay to even check the NO terminals. Relays have to be checked under load by measureing the voltage drop across the switched terminals, or just replace the friggan thing, its only gotta be a few bucks if that.
The only way you will solve it is buy just replacing a whole bunch of crap and hope it never happens again, or wait untill its not starting and see if your getting power to the starter. If yes replace the starter, if not, then its time to stare at wiring diagrams...
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
CEG'er
|
|
OP
CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176 |
Thanks for the replies. When the problem begins, the engine will stall or cut out. Then it won't start, no solonoid engagement, etc. nothing. Wait a few minutes and it will then start. I ordered a new ignition switch and new ignition lock (key comes out while car is running) I'll see how this work out.
Thanks,
Bob
An ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
