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I'm sorry you feel that way.

I believe it would be from the extreme vacuum produced when engine braking. Has nothing to do with "detecting" that the car is in gear... being in gear creates that drag, which creats that vacuum.

Here's another link, for those that are less than inclined to believe me.


Link

(psst... check the sig... LOL)

Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


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Originally posted by Ray:
Here's another link, for those that are less than inclined to believe me.
...(psst... check the sig... LOL)

Ray




"check profile BIO for AIM CEG list!".

Ok, Ray. What has this got to do with believing you? Now, I am less inclined to believe you.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I KNEW when I posted that that YOU (of all people) would be the one to point it out... I knew it..


lol

Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


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OK I understand now - thanks for the link Ray. My foot is in my mouth I tend to engine-brake when slowing anyways and now I'll do it even more!

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Originally posted by akrump47:
OK how would the MTX computer even know whether the car was in gear or not? I dont know about ATX but this sounds false to me ...




A while back I read some extensive details about the engine computer in my '88 Thunderbird. It determined that you were coasting in gear based on the throttle position sensor, idle air control position, and engine RPM. If the throttle was closed, IAC closed, and the engine was above 1700 rpm or so, it'd deduce that you are coasting and shut off the injectors.

This was also verfied by the instant MPG readout on the trip computer, which would quickly go past 200 and then read "----". If I put it in neutral, it would drop to ~70-80 mpg or so at highway speed.

Another interesting tidbit: evidently the computer could also figure out that you were attempting to push-start an MTX car, and adjust the timing to make it easier to start.

And that was 80s technology (probably developed in the late 70s!)--makes me wonder what kinds of cool stuff our far more modern computers must take into consideration!


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Haven't done anything different. Just cost me $42 to fill my tank with regular.


[color:"green"]-Matt R

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Originally posted by Ray:
a few things to note:

driving belowe the "bulk" of the powerband (lower than about 2K) is a waste of time... There is more strain on the transaxle to pull a car that low in the rpm range, and in turn uses more gas.

Also.. coasting in neutral or with the clutch in uses more gas than leaving it in gear and "engine braking" down a hill.

In neutral, you are still pumping gas through the injectors (idling)... in gear, it will actually shut off the injectors and stop using gas at all.. Coasting in gear is the most efficient means of operating the engine that is possible.


You will see the best mileage staying between 2K and 3K (power band and secondary operation, respectively).


Ray



I have found that shifting below 2K RPMs gives me the best mileage. The faster I can get the car into higher gear, the better. I could be wrong, but I try to keep it under 2K, and it seems to pay off.

I do believe the bit about engine braking a down a hill. Since I live on a hill and drive around a hilly area, I will try doing this more often. Does it cause a lot more stress on a transmission to downshift it?

What I really don't understand is in the 626, when I let off the gas pedal at speed, the RPMs drop all the way down, then kick back up slightly to its idle speed of around 650. It feels like it's being thrown into neutral every time, and I understand the bit about the gears reversing (It clunks), but I wonder why my Contour doesn't do it so abruptly? The 626 will just fall to idle and stay down there as you slow down. I usually take the O/D off and sometimes even put it into 2 down the one steep hill. It seems to really help, but is that very bad for it? Btw, the 626 actually has the same CD4E trans. It's a 99 auto with a brand new trans.


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I don't see how anyone can shift under 2k, except maybe shifting into 4th or 5th on a downhill. It feels waaay to much like I'm bogging it if I shift that low.

I shift between 2500 and 3000 rpms, and occasionally I run it to 4k to keep my secondaries from gunking up. I get good gas mileage, and try to avoid slowing down and/or downshifting and such when cruising, and I get pretty stinkin good gas mileage.
That's how I usually drive, and it may or may not be the best way.
-Peter

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I don't "shift" because it's an automatic. I should clarify that, sorry. I couldn't imagine shifting under 2K either, but the automatic is much lazier.


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No.


Hector 2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII 257HP/259TQ 2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED 160HP/141TQ
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