Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Replacing Inner Tie Rods

I've tried searching am finding some conflicting information.

I beleive my inner tie rods to be the source of a clunking or popping noise I get when going over bumps and a slightly sloppy steering, and some other sloppy symptoms. I'd obviously like to spend as little as possible on the repair.

Parts are about $25/each.

Many posts and the ford manual say you have to drop the subframe for this and its a $500 repair or so (figures fluctuate between 300 and 900). But I've found other posts that people have said they have not had to drop the subframe to get this done.

So which is it? And if it can be done without dropping the subframe can someone provide details that I could explain it to a mechanic that might just look at a book and assume he has to drop the frame?

Good question. I wish I had my Haynes manual to see what they say. As much as it sucks on some aspects it shines in others.

Well I called a couple local shops and they are saying 2 hours labor, so about $130-$145 for the swap, includes toe-adjustment. I think I'll just have em git-r-done for me.

Might be best in this case. As good as us wrenchers are sometimes it's best to take it to a shop.

Amazing I'd never thought to call that a tie-rod end? I'd get a whole new or rebuilt rack. The Ford CD shows dropping the sub-frame,their point is the rack needs to be held so to "avoid extensive torque forces removing the tie rod end".
If you'e going to all that might as well do it all. my 2 cents!

I watched my tranmission shop replace the rack on a Cougar, they droppped the sub-frame, made it so much easier. I can't remember if the engine was still supported from above. Tranny had just re-installed. Having it up on lift would make sooooo much simpler!
That 450 ft lb. air wrench w/hammer assist had one heck of time breaking the sub-frame bolt drivers footwell side.
Yep I would think twice and let a shop do this, unless you have one in your garage?


Paul

Are you sure its a inner? If your not sure how to check it, lift both front wheels off the ground, go over and wiggle the wheel slighty, your looking for end play, look at the tie rod end and see if there is movement, if its a inner you will see slight end play at the "boot". Be sure to check ball joints as well.

Never done one on a contour, but shouldn't have to remove the subframe at all. I don't recall, but if there is a hex end on the inner tie rod, like it would fit a wrench, than all you need is a crow foot, long extension and a ratchet.

- Jack car up
- Remove wheel from suspect side
- Remove clip and boot
- Loosen tie rod "end" and pop out of knuckle, or completly un-screw tie rod end, DO not move jam nut, mark before loosening jam nut.
- place crow feet on hex part of the inner, attach extension and ratched and loosen, will be difficult.
- Screw in new inner, using a little loc-tite, tighten,
- Install boot, may have to use zip tie if clip is not reusable
-install outer tie rod end in EXACT same spot
-Tighten nut and install wheel

Bad inners do give a loose steering feel. Let me know if this helps.

Well, I'm assuming its the inner. I mean I've checked EVERYTHIGN else for this clunk/popping noise and I cant find it. The only play I've found on my front suspension was on the tie rod. I used a rubber mallot to wack around down there and the only thing that moved at all is the tie rod. It even made a clank when I tapped it.

New endlinks, new wheel bearings, BAT suspension kit has about 50-60k on it now, new balljoints, control-arm bushings are good, new camber plates at the top, new drive shafts as of about 5k miles ago... only thing left for that clunk is the steering.

Anyway, it goes into the shop tomorrow to replace the inner tie rods. What I'll do is have the shop check for play before they tear into it just to be sure this is a good idea. If they say its fine, then I'll scrap this idea and go with replacing the steering rack or something like that.

Ha...My car (2k SVT) is in teh shop right now, and the guy is telling me they CAN NOT replace the tie rods. There is NO hex on the SVT tie rod. There is nothing. No way of removing it at all. He has the part on order, but doesnt think it will help. He is saying the part is probably only supposed to be ordered by people who do steering rack rebuilds. And he is thinking he will have to change the entire rack. I think I am done with this POS car.

More like done with that mechanic.