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#1379743 09/17/05 08:22 PM
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Try replacing your swaybar bushings. I'm guessing they're worn out after 3yrs and have enough play to let the swaybar bang against the subframe while under load. They're pretty cheap at $6.50/ea from BAT.

You might also consider replacing the swaybar bushing brackets if your originals are deformed enough. They'll cost you at least $60 for a new pair.

How do the circle retainer clips that BAT welds on its swaybar look? Are they bent, deformed, or missing? They could be a possible source for the klunk.


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#1379744 09/20/05 04:19 AM
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The bushings seemed fine when I had them off to grease them. They only have about 25,000 miles on them. The retainer clips are fine as well. From what I remember, the bushing brackets are ok...but i'll check them when I take it off. If it is a wear issue...I would assume that the noise would gradually appear and then get worse. This is strange because the noise didn't appear until I had the suspension changed


99 T-green svt K&N & heatshield Opt. y-pipe Borla Superchip DMD Magnecore wires Metal impeller water pump BAT / Bilstein kit 21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe 215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's jimmkreider@yahoo.com
#1379745 09/24/05 10:19 PM
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Did they preload the rear suspension before tighting up the bolts to the controll arms. the bushings could be binding.

JD28



JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
#1379746 09/24/05 11:05 PM
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Originally posted by csvt99:
Checked the sway bar, kink is on the passenger side so it must me on correctly.




Umm My bend in the bar is on the drivers side. That could also be the problem.

Note the leading controll arms (The U looking ones coming off the old subframe) the side towards the fence is the drivers side. You can see the bend in the stock sway bar on that side. hope this helps, also do the preload if that wasn't done.




JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
#1379747 09/25/05 06:56 PM
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Well Stazi said the kink should be on the passenger side...so that is what I was going off of. But looking at your picture...I thought the sway bar was on the front of the subframe...if that is the case then your bend would be on the passenger side...but maybe i'm wrong, I didn't get a lot ot sleep last night

As far as the "preloading" goes, can someone explain that too me? I'm not 100% familiar with what is meant by that

Thanks!


99 T-green svt K&N & heatshield Opt. y-pipe Borla Superchip DMD Magnecore wires Metal impeller water pump BAT / Bilstein kit 21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe 215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's jimmkreider@yahoo.com
#1379748 09/25/05 07:49 PM
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Originally posted by csvt99:
Well Stazi said the kink should be on the passenger side...so that is what I was going off of. But looking at your picture...I thought the sway bar was on the front of the subframe...if that is the case then your bend would be on the passenger side...but maybe i'm wrong, I didn't get a lot ot sleep last night

As far as the "preloading" goes, can someone explain that too me? I'm not 100% familiar with what is meant by that

Thanks!




The subframe is upside down in the picture.

1 is the bend in the bar, if you where to flip it over to be installed on the car it would be in front of the rear wheels.

2 is the leading controll arms. Seeing that one you know it has to be on the drivers side when it's flipped over because it's the leading arm (first)

3 is the trailing arm. (last)

4 is the sub frame.



Preloading. You know when you jack up the car the strut and spring extend the wheel fully down. This also makes the leading (2) and trailing (3) extended fully down. If you where to loosen then tighten the bolts back up with the suspension in this position it loads the bushings in the arms to that position. When you drop the car back down it binds the bushings and causes problems and premature failure of the bushings.

To preload put the car on level ground raise it up with 4 jack stands and make sure it's level. Have all the rear bolts loose, jack one wheel up at the knuckle till the car comes about 1/8th inch or less off the jack stand then tighten the bolts on that side. Do the same for the other.


JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
#1379749 09/25/05 08:00 PM
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Thanks for the clearification with the sway bar!

As far as the preloading goes....that is interesting...I've never done that before. You are just talking about the sway bar bolts correct?


99 T-green svt K&N & heatshield Opt. y-pipe Borla Superchip DMD Magnecore wires Metal impeller water pump BAT / Bilstein kit 21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe 215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's jimmkreider@yahoo.com
#1379750 09/25/05 09:03 PM
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My bend when I took off my factory bar was on the passenger's side.

I also had the klunk after doing a whole bunch of suspension work at 90K miles (BAT kit and replaced pretty much all wearable suspension parts). I had already replaced my rear bar around 50K miles with the BAT bar.

I just replaced the worn swaybar bushings and "adjusted" the swaybar brackets and mounting plates with a hammer/punch to get everything back to square. I also "adjusted" the retaining rings on the swaybar to get them back into position. The klunk is 100% gone now.

The bushings didn't look all that worn either, but when compared with the new bushings you could see that the hole had been enlarged somewhat.


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#1379751 09/25/05 09:08 PM
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How long has the clunk been "gone"


99 T-green svt K&N & heatshield Opt. y-pipe Borla Superchip DMD Magnecore wires Metal impeller water pump BAT / Bilstein kit 21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe 215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's jimmkreider@yahoo.com
#1379752 09/25/05 09:22 PM
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Originally posted by csvt99:
Thanks for the clearification with the sway bar!

As far as the preloading goes....that is interesting...I've never done that before. You are just talking about the sway bar bolts correct?




Controll arm bolts at the sub frame and at the knuckles have to be tighten using the preload method. Sway bar doesn't matter.

As for mine I'm wondering if I put the stock bar back in the wrong way, after testing the BAT and finding the subframe started making noise... I guess I'll have to fix that.


JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
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