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Didn't see anyone in here suggest it, so how about checking the wheelbearing status?
(lift suspect side, and try to wobble the wheel/hub "up/down" [like tilt steering] Any movement would indicate a bad bearing or hub)
At least firmly eliminate the possibility before going in to differential problems.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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thats what we did yesterday. got nothiing out of normal. even checked driver's side. could it be the diff that would make this horrible "droning" sound when straight/left but go away when going right?
#2079
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Originally posted by Ray:
Didn't see anyone in here suggest it, so how about checking the wheelbearing status?
(lift suspect side, and try to wobble the wheel/hub "up/down" [like tilt steering] Any movement would indicate a bad bearing or hub)
At least firmly eliminate the possibility before going in to differential problems.
Ray
Actually I did suggest checking the wheel bearing about 3 posts back, as I had the exact same problem, and when the bearing was inspected with the rock/wobble the tire method there was no signs of give or play but there was a distint noise coming from the front left wheel/drive shaft, the Drive shaft boots looked in perfect shape so I went after the bearing first before replacing anything else and in my case it worked.
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1999 Black/Tan CSVT
#2658 of 2760
201,000+km
- K&N, Magnecor race wires, Optima red top, BAT Euro Kit, KVR CF pads, PIAA Plasma Ion bulbs.
1989 Yamaha FZR600 - 40,000+km
- K&N Pods, Stage 3 Jets, V&H 4-1 exhaust
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Originally posted by TRed00SVT:
thats what we did yesterday. got nothiing out of normal. even checked driver's side.
There doesn't always have to be a wobble or play to mean a bad wheel bearing.
I was getting a drone when I turned the wheel slightly to the right. Absolutely no play in the hub/wheel bearing. Replaced it over the weekend and the drone is gone.
Slow Vehicles in Training
01' Lightning
99' SVTC
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thanks then. that is what i will try. whats the cheapest place to get a wheel bearing? do they come pressed already?
#2079
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Last edited by Tony2005; 09/07/05 08:31 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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good looking out, thank you!
#2079
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For the moment, Stazi has driver's side hubs with bearings already pressed for $50. I don't know if he can get the passenger side or not.
Either way..
if you go through Bill and get a bearing, you will have to pay to have it pressed out, and the new one pressed in. Depending on what labor for removal of the hub and pressing cost, you can get a new OEM hub with bearing pressed from Steve at Tousley ford for 150.00 and some change (shipped) which eliminates the pressing, and all it is then is a simple swap of hubs. I don't know the Bill J price on a hub/bearing assy, which is why I mention Steve.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by Ray:
For the moment, Stazi has driver's side hubs with bearings already pressed for $50.
This is better "looking out" ($50). Actually, get the pre-pressed hub/bearings. In previous posts, there were discussions about bearing failures due to improper pressing of the bearings on the hubs (or something like that).
And this is my 1000th post. 
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Congrats, Tony.
also.. the hub nut (axle nut, locking spindle nut, and other aliases) is a ONE TIME USE ONLY NUT.
Torwue the NEW one to 208-214 FOOT pounds or cause premature failure of your new bearing.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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