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First off I want to thank anyone that can offer some suggestions on this issue, and warn that I know some about cars but am far from being a mechanic so if I ask a stupid question please give me a virtual slap.
I bought a 96 contour (v6) a few weeks ago. The car has been running great since then without any problems at all. Then this morning I went got in the car and started off to work. Shortly after pulling out the car started to loose power and stalled out. I restarted the car after a little cranking and got about another three miles before it again lost power and stalled out. I pulled off to the side of the road thinking that maybe the gas guage was just not accurate and that the tank was empty. I called roadside assistance and they brought two gallons of gas and put in the car. I then had to crank the car for a while and it would not start. As the roadside assistance guy was calling to arrange for a tow for me I tried again and the car started and I was able to make it the rest of the way to work without any problems, so I had figured that maybe it had been out of gas and that I was just a moron. Well a little while ago I took my lunch and decided to run up to the gas station to grab a drink and fill the tank the rest of the way up. I got in the car and it started right up, even though the idle seemed just a little rougher than normal. I pulled out of the lot and got about three hundred feet before the car stalled out again and would not start again. I had to push the car back into the parking lot, I tried letting it sit for a few minutes but it still would not start.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what the issue could be and if there are any possibilities that I would be able to check when I am off work so that I can get home.
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Originally posted by ddillard: Shortly after pulling out the car started to loose power and stalled out. I restarted the car after a little cranking and got about another three miles before it again lost power and stalled out. I pulled off to the side of the road thinking that maybe the gas guage was just not accurate and that the tank was empty. ... I got in the car and it started right up, even though the idle seemed just a little rougher than normal. I pulled out of the lot and got about three hundred feet before the car stalled out again and would not start again. I had to push the car back into the parking lot, I tried letting it sit for a few minutes but it still would not start.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what the issue could be and if there are any possibilities that I would be able to check when I am off work so that I can get home.
Welcome. 4 things come to mind. Water in gas (use HEET or fuel stabilizer), Fuel filter, MAF sensor and IAC valve.
Edit.
Fuel filter.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=958655&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=186&fpart=1
MAF
http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=36
IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.
"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.
The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/29/05 11:48 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Just to add to the above.
If it is the IAC then you can overcome it by holding the throttle down slightly when cranking. The IAC would only cause stalling if you were off the throttle when it was happening.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Check to make sure the wire harness connection to the crank sensor is on tight. Also make sure the wires aren't frayed. This sensor can cause problem starts.
1996 2.5LT V6 Contour ATX My Tour+help/info pics
E0 rims, Gutted Pre-Cats,CTA Custom Exhaust & Intake, Diablo Chip.
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its ur fuel pump or you have a leak in your breaking system which is what i have and when my master cylinder is full of brake fluid my car runs at the best idle and when its tad off it wants to stall ive also noted that when the car is below 1/2 a tank its starts acting up more than normal could be the filter on the fuel pump the lower one. i did change my iac it increased my mpg and my accelaration whent up. i have a dohc 4 banger tho also when my ac is on my belt squeaks but car idles like the queen she is. im thinking the car might be low on freon.
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I want to thank everyone for taking the time to post some advice here, I am going to start trying some of it when I get off work in a few hours. I do have one question though, does anyone know where I can find more pictures like the one posted earlier in the thread to show where the sensors and such are. As I stated I am fairly new to some of this, but really want to learn to do this stuff myself as I really like the car but cannot afford to pay a mechanic to do the stuff.
EDIT: Nevermind I found the pics I needed in the sig of the member that posted the other pic. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!! I will update on my progress later tonight.
Last edited by ddillard; 08/30/05 06:14 PM.
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I ended up putting it in a garage since I had to have it towed home from work anyway and they just called me and it was the MAF.
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Originally posted by ddillard: it was the MAF.
Thanks for posting the solution. It will help others for future searches.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Well, having the MAF repaired fixed it for a while, but about a month and a half later the sensor went out again. I took it back to the garage and they replaced it again for free. Two hours after that it went out again. I can still use the car as long as I unplug the MAF but it takes more gas. I have been that to get back and forth to work until I have to have it fixed again but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas what could be causing it to go out so often.
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Do you have a oiled cloth filter? (as opposed to a regular paper filter, oil is bad for the MAF sensor). Are the clamps on the accordian tube tight? (dirt). Is the air filter housing installed correctly? (dirt).
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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