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x12 Originally posted by Ray:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by LoganB:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by SVT PETE:
save your money.
+1
Mark
+2
+3
What the hell..
+eleventy billion and twelvety-two
Ryan
Trollin!
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Posts: 453
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Originally posted by RTStabler51:
x12
Originally posted by Ray:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by LoganB:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by SVT PETE:
save your money.
+1
Mark
+2
+3
What the hell..
+eleventy billion and twelvety-two
x10
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Posts: 3,840
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Ray:
+eleventy billion and twelvety-two
Those numbers are copyrighted Ray! You know that! 
-SAV 
Troll. 1997 VW Jetta MkIII GLS 5spd
All hail my appearance on CEG!
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Ray said hell! swear word :-x:-x:-x
Alex
'99 SVT Contour
-=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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OP
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Originally posted by ExDelayed:
And a Duratec swap into a `95 could prove to be quite difficult. You will either need a OBDI parts car or you will have to convert the car to OBDII. Most, if not all of the wiring harness will have to be changed, most likely including what is behind the dash. The ECU, will have to come out, all new exhaust will need to get under it, a radiator, A/C mods, etc. If you go MTX, you will need the subframe as well.
That doesnt even get into what will happen if your parts car is a 98+, you have a return fuel system, the newer cars do not.
Since this is the only helpful post on this thread, I'll just quote it and ask this guy a question.
So it CAN be done but would be a little bit of work you say? And the duratec would be better than the 3L, is that what you are saying? Because I dont mind spending some money on the car. I don't want to get rid of it. In fact until it's completely un-drivable (is that even a word) I will be keeping it.
And uh.. thanks to all the people who just wanted to +1 to their post count. This was a serious post. I'm not some little teenage punk like it seems you think.
White 95 GL ATX
56K Miles on it.
Optilux By Hella Fog lights (The Angel Eyes)
Driven hard, Just like I like it!
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Robert.
Nobody inferred that you were a "teenage punkk". In fact, nobody even said those words, except for you.
I am sorry to hear about your grandfather passing, and I am glad that you are able to get joy out of driving and maintaining the car that was passed on to you.
The recent statements of "+1" were a double meaning.
The first, and foremost, was to emphasize that OUR OPINION was to save money. Spending the money to upgrade the car simply to further your grandfather's legacy and memory wouldn't be the greatest idea. Upgrading the car because you wish to enjoy it in that manner is your call, however.
The second, and perhaps harder to ascertain, reason was a play on the fact that it is getting really popular for people to quote posts in such a manner. As a moderator, I have to see this umpteen times a day and it was more of a humorous venting on that subject matter. If you haven't been active for a while, or haven't been actively participating in posts with such actions, you wouldn't have noticed the joke/venting.
Now, on to the matter at hand:
I wouldn't think that anyone would recommend the standard duratec, or even the SVT 2.5 over the 3L duratec. The 3L will give you more horsepower and GOBS more torque for LESS money. It is more expensive to purchase and swap an SVT 2.5 than a 3L ANY day (barring a free SVT engine, somehow)
The swap from OBD-i (your 95) to OBD-II is possible, and CAN be done, though the depth of the conversion will MORE than cover anything you can anticipate. As alluded, the major stumbling blocks would be the wiring harness (including most of the behind-the-dash wiring, the secondaries being converted, and the return-style to return-less conversion. Plan on converting to a manual, as well? Factor in a new subframe, and the conversion costs associated with that, as well. All costs aren't monetary, and this is going to be a VERY big project. Quite frankly, few people have the drive to embark on a project of this nature without giving up (or at least wanting to) mid-way through it.
Now.. If you'd like more detailed information on the swap, should you come to a concrete decision, I am sure that all of CEG would be more than willing to help you. Until then, you are merely speculating and asking our opinions, which you can see are mostly in agreement.
Ask around in the 3L forum for more detailed and technical answers.. We, as a community are more than happy to help (that is... all of us who aren't teenage punks..)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Thank you for your reply Ray.
Well as for a concrete decision, I was trying to see what would be easier to swap in. I'm not looking for uber HP out of the car. I just need something to help me out a bit. I neglected to mention, and this is my fault completely, that even though I don't drive it much as of right now, that coming either this spring or summer, I will be transferring schools. A 30 mile or more round trip a day will be required then.
So right now, I assumed, would be the best time to have any work of this type done. Money isn't as much of a concern to me, there was enough left to me to buy a very nice car. It's just this is way cheaper and I love the car. It's not a way of "carrying on his memory" its more of, nothing really caught my fancy in the way of a new car. Especially for the prices they are charging right now.
Besides just putting in a new engine, I would be adding new suspension, since it needs it anyhow, new tires and rims (has new tires but I want 15's or 16's, new exhaust setup etc. I'm not going to "rice" it up or go way over huge ammounts of money on this. 5 or 6k max. Even though the people that put valid oppinions on here (which I thank them for BTW) said that it's not worth the expense, its still around 1/4 the price of a new car.
Now if the 3L adds too much trouble to it with subframe changes, possible transmission swaps (other than a new ATX which I wouldn't mind) would just a straight swap of the standard V6 (not SVT) work? Any major work there? That's mainly what I'm looking for, nothing fancy. Again I dont need "Gobs of power and torque" just something to be a little more zippier for the upcoming commute.
White 95 GL ATX
56K Miles on it.
Optilux By Hella Fog lights (The Angel Eyes)
Driven hard, Just like I like it!
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It is't the 3L that adds the work/expense.. it is the MTX swap which requires a new subframe.
Either way, standar 2.5, SVT 2.5 or 3L, you are looking at the same OBD-I/OBD-II conversion, wiring harness, etc.
Only differences would be pricing (cheaper for the 3L) and availability (easier to find a 3L)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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and you have to swap out for a MTX? No ATX in the SHO?
Sorry about these questions, I dont remember that much about the SHO.
White 95 GL ATX
56K Miles on it.
Optilux By Hella Fog lights (The Angel Eyes)
Driven hard, Just like I like it!
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the SHO engine is not useable in the Contour.
the 3L is a Duratec from the Escape/Taurus, etc.
The 3L yamaha from the SHO will not fit.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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