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I might be losing it, but I'm sure someone mentioned that the Zetec runs better at hotter temps, not 195 but not like N or O.

I noticed considerable change with new coolant, 180 thermo, so I think if some of you still have a high temp, check if the fan works and if the guage is functional. Remember, get phosphate-free antifreeze.


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dummy gauges


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Originally posted by microtonal:
Mine does the same.
Sits around R during normal driving but in stop and go traffic, it will creep up to the L but never goes past it.

Had the WP replaced, Coolant flushed, 180 thermostat installed, Temp Gauge sender replaced. No change on temp gauge. Heater also blows hot air.

Also, coolant level stays the same(no change) and fan does kick on if it sits around L for about 10 minutes.






Mine does exaclty the same. I had a coolant leak and lost all my coolant once... still didn't change. I think I'll be getting an aftermarket gauge w/ real numbers.


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Bump. A few months ago my Duratec guage started running awfully warm in city traffic or just after getting off the highway. It would run around R normally, and creeped up to/past L and back down again as soon as the low-speed fan turned on. We installed a new WP (white impeller), thermostat, ECT sensor, coolant and WP belt, and then the car started definitely running hot (gauge maintained stance between M and L, no coolant flow, low and high speed fans on within 15 minutes). Brapple's OBD-II scan showed fans turning on at appropriate temperatures and that the engine was hot. Dealer installed new radiator, did a coolant flush, second WP (back to black this time) and thermostat, and finally $1300+ later the car is again appearing to be running hot only in city traffic - now reading between O and R unless in traffic when it creeps up to past M and the fan turns on (occasionally going back down and then back up again, sometimes not). An expensive venture on my part. Mechanic #2 noted I am missing an air dam, if it matters.

I'm basically thinking now that my gauge decided to become erratic or oversensitive. Not quite sure why, perhaps buying an aftermarket gauge (or an OBD-II cable) would show what the engine is really doing. It could just be my sending unit and the engine is fine; the engine could possibly be running warmer than it should; .. at this point I've given up and am ready to run the car into the ground. I am planning to replace it next year post-graduation anyway; I don't care anymore!

FWIW - 99+ Contiques don't have "NORMAL" in their gauges, IIRC.

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Originally posted by 98 SE:
Mechanic #2 noted I am missing an air dam, if it matters.




Yes, it matters. The lower radiator deflector forces the air to go to the radiator and cool it. Put it back and see if it helps.


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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by 98 SE:
Mechanic #2 noted I am missing an air dam, if it matters.




Yes, it matters. The lower radiator deflector forces the air to go to the radiator and cool it. Put it back and see if it helps.




removed from 98 and on contours, only svts get em at this point, beleive all pre98 have the air dams


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Originally posted by brapple:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by 98 SE:
Mechanic #2 noted I am missing an air dam, if it matters.




Yes, it matters. The lower radiator deflector forces the air to go to the radiator and cool it. Put it back and see if it helps.




removed from 98 and on contours, only svts get em at this point, beleive all pre98 have the air dams




I stand corrected! Thanks brapple.


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Am I thinking about the same thing? The big plastic cover that covers the empty space behind the bumper, between the rad and engine?


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Originally posted by Cris'pus:
Am I thinking about the same thing? The big plastic cover that covers the empty space behind the bumper, between the rad and engine?





yes, this deflector/sheild fills in the space between the bumper and the subframe from wheel well to wheel well


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Ok, but you're saying 98's didn't have one? Mine was made in june 97 (as a 98), maybe that's why I have one.



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