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Well, I replaced the water pump and also changed out the timing belt and pullies for good measure and thought I could get away with not using the Ford camshaft alignment tool (or even a good homemade tool for that matter).

So I fired it up the other day and it runs like crap so I think I'm off on the timing. Serves me right!

I've read as much as I could find on here about this stuff. Is it correct that the pre-98 guys have to have a camshaft holding tool to loosen the cam bolts, whereas with the post 98 Zetecs you can hold the cam sprockets with a wrench. When I was in there I don't remember seeing anyplace I could put a wrench on the hold the pulleys.

Has anyone bought the holding tool at the stealership? Seems like it might cost a fortune . The Autozone and Checker stores could not help. Im going to call some other parts stores tomorrow.

Just want to put this project to bed and start driving this car again!! Damn do I miss it!!


96 Contour GL 2.0L MTX with Early SE 7 spoke wheels, SE sideskirts, Koni Sport Kit 70 Mustang Sportsroof with mild 351W and '01 Mustang GT wheels
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In the haynes manual they describe how to make your own home-made one I believe.
I seems to me however, that you wouldn't have to loosen the cam pulley's necessarily, but maybe you will. Hope you get it worked out.
-Peter

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why do you have to un-tighten the bolts? pop the valve cover off and the belt and turn the cam with your hands


96' ATX Zetec- stock 96' ATX Zetec- Modded Kenwood KDC-319 5.75"-2 MTX 12's Roady XT Custom door panels Mystique Cluster/oil pressure Getting repainted(in primer) Pre98 Lip SE skirts Mystique front lip dingless badgeless
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You have to un-tighten the cam gears so the turn freely while the cams r locked. otherwise your not going to get all the slack out the belt. This is the correct way to do it, anyother and your timing is off.

My 98 zetec has flat spots on the cam to put a wrench.

other wise a holding tool made up with 2 flat pieces of metal drill a whole threw the center of the 2 then one on the ends put bolts threw center so you have a sissor type looking thing. and then some long bolts threw the holes at the end. You place it so the bolts on the end engage with the opening of the camgear. You might have to have a helper hold the tool while you turn the camgear bolt.

JD


JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Lets make this REALLY EASY! Take the valvecover off of the head. It takes about 5 minutes if your not moving fast. Look at the opposite end of the cams. THERE ARE SLITS CUT INTO THEM. They are cut off center so you can slide the ford holding tool (piece of angle iron - nothing special either ) into them only when they are in time. You can loosen the pullies if you want to at this point. But if you haven't loosened them from when you took the old belt off, LEAVE THEM BE! Set the timing mark on the crank and put the belt on. Put tension on the belt. If the pullies were timed properly and had no slop in them before, there will be none now and they will still be correctly timed . I have a friend that works at a ford dealership and has done HUNDREDS of Zetec timing belts and uses this procedure every time. It's very quick too. Just make sure you use a piece of angle iron that fit snugly in the slits. I have the whole procedure start to finish on a zetec down to about 1 1/2 hrs myself. Trust me, it's just simpler to pull the valvecover than to waste your time trying to find another way around it.


95 Contour, Custom EVO bodykit, 2.0l, PNP Focus head, Stage 2 cams, Je pistons, Eagle rods, 4in1header, 2.5" header back exhaust(complete stainless), D P nitrous, ram air intake, 10mm wires, flamethrower.
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I think anyone doing this job would know you have to take the cover off anyway, to lock the cams.

You never, ever want to use the locking tool to hold the cams (or any fab locking tool) while loosening the cam gear bolts. You can do damage to the end of the cam that the locking tool is installed into, gasket matting surface and the tool itself.

The best method is get the [SPX] OTC 6486 2.0L Zetec Engine SET for 25 dollars. And get a total timing belt kit for 120 dollars that comes with belt, tension, and rollers. Tq everything to specs, follow GATES instructions to the "T" which states to loosen cam gears. 98 and up have spots for a wrench to hold the cams, anything before you need a tool to hold the gear itself.

Any other method in my opinion is a half !@# job.

JD




JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Call it half a**ed if you want to. But it works, cuts time in half and is used in just about every ford shop in the US.


95 Contour, Custom EVO bodykit, 2.0l, PNP Focus head, Stage 2 cams, Je pistons, Eagle rods, 4in1header, 2.5" header back exhaust(complete stainless), D P nitrous, ram air intake, 10mm wires, flamethrower.
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I don't know dude. Your post didn't make much sense. Seems like your brain wasn't on point but your fingers where typing.

I don't think your made up method is used in major dealer ships. You didn't include the fact that you have to replace all timing component, and if you look at the other post you will see why you have to replace everything.

I can speak from personal experience. Can you?

JD


JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Not trying to start an argument, but myself, and I believe several others have done timing belts without loosening cam pulleys, and it has worked fine. Not saying it's the best way, but it works, and is alot easier. And very few people buy the cam holding tools either.
But it's fine to do it the way you do it, more foolproof I would say.
-Peter

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Originally posted by 98Ford2L:
Not trying to start an argument, but myself, and I believe several others have done timing belts without loosening cam pulleys, and it has worked fine. Not saying it's the best way, but it works, and is alot easier. And very few people buy the cam holding tools either.
But it's fine to do it the way you do it, more foolproof I would say.
-Peter



It is the best way. No reason to loosen the cam pulleys unless somehow the cams wouldn't line up and they HAVE to be loosened.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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