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#1357885 08/10/05 08:20 PM
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i have a 95 se atx, got a code for the erg valve no opening, apon inspecting, the battery cable was melted and touching the egr tube, short burnt through sensing line elbow, i am going to replace tube, but was wondering if it is easyer to get to nut on manifold from the top of engine or underneath car, and what size wrench is it. anybody with helpful hits appreciated

#1357886 08/11/05 02:18 PM
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Good luck with that. No room in there to move.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1357887 08/16/05 11:48 PM
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How tricky is it to replace the EGR valve? I'm getting a CEL with P0401 that states it has a low flow. If anyone has any advice or how-to knowledge, please enlighten me.

#1357888 08/17/05 12:35 AM
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On the V6, it is two bolts, and pull it off, slap on a new gasket and tighten the two bolts again.. nothing else is taken off.


Check for a leak or crack in the green vacuum tube on top of the EGR first. if it comes off, or cracks you will get the same code.

You can test the EGR by sucking on the nipple of it (pull the green vacuum tube off) and see if the car stumbles while running. If it does, the EGR is good. look elsewhere for lack of flow (vacuum tube I mention first, etc)



Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
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#1357889 08/17/05 01:39 AM
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Originally posted by Ray:
On the V6, it is two bolts, and pull it off, slap on a new gasket and tighten the two bolts again.. Ray




Don't forget the EGR to tube nut to be disconnected and reinstalled.

Autozone has some pictures to use as a guide. However, it appears to make it very tough to remove. As Ray implied, IT IS ACTUALLY MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE than it appears on the pictures.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e.jsp


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1357890 08/17/05 03:42 AM
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Originally posted by ConnContour:
How tricky is it to replace the EGR valve? I'm getting a CEL with P0401 that states it has a low flow. If anyone has any advice or how-to knowledge, please enlighten me.




P0401 is normally clogged passages in the intake and behind the throttle body. I would check that before buying parts.


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#1357891 08/17/05 05:49 PM
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Much thanx. I'll try it out in the next few days before I buy anything.

#1357892 08/18/05 04:08 PM
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by Ray:
On the V6, it is two bolts, and pull it off, slap on a new gasket and tighten the two bolts again.. Ray




Don't forget the EGR to tube nut to be disconnected and reinstalled.






I changed my egr the other week and it was easy for the most part. It would have been a lot easier to get at it if I took the ICU off, but I didn't. Just took 2 plummers wrenches and turned them in opposite directions and *poof* the tube nut came loose and I was able to turn the rest by hand. My new ERG was $69.95, so it wasn't too expensive and it didn't take too long to do. But I agree with the other post on cleaning things first before you get a new one. Take off the throttle body and clean that passage first.


95 SE MTX svt exhaust intake deer killer
#1357893 08/18/05 04:26 PM
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On our 1995 V6 the EGR ports were clogged and failed inspection. Check that first. Simple to clean. We had bought a new or rather another EGR but never used it. After cleaning, it was really clogged, went right through inspection.


1998 SVT 1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried) 1997 Contour 2.0 ATX 1998 Contour 2.5 ATX 2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec

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