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Originally posted by RogerB:
Dyno?
stock compared to monsterflow and different resonator, the average difference was +6 ft-lbs/+3 HP. peak was +9/+4.5, respectively. not bad.. but probably not noticeable either. it's worth noting that gains were across the board.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally posted by RogerB:
I have an open ITG filter on the car. I have an SVT airbox in the garage. Just need to find time to test and swap.
I'd love to see your results as I have a cold air box in the mail and a MAF adapter and K&N RU-3530 in my guest room.
As far as I can tell, the stock airbox routes air straight from the fender into the airbox (via a cone filter)--basically the aim of every aftermarket cold air intake.
Beyond better filter material, what gains are we really looking at?
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Originally posted by louisw:
Originally posted by RogerB:
Dyno?
stock compared to monsterflow and different resonator, the average difference was +6 ft-lbs/+3 HP. peak was +9/+4.5, respectively. not bad.. but probably not noticeable either. it's worth noting that gains were across the board.
OK. From a "kick-in-the-pants" perspective, perhaps not worth it, but the gains are there. Worth it if you're trying to squeeze every last bit out of it. As in, for competition or something.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by PowerChris 5000:
If you are going through all this trouble, why not just be done with it and put the dang filter in the fender?  
This is the best way. We all do it on our turbo cars and it can lower the air temps going into the engine by as much as 40 degrees.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
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Originally posted by Rishodi:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by Rishodi:
Aluminum is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. An aluminum heatshield on its own will do little to actually insulate your air intake because it heats up rather quickly. If you insulate the aluminum with something though, then that's ideal because it will both look better and perform as well as a plastic heatshield.
This is incorrect.
All it has to do is stop the flow of hot air into the filter from the engine compartment and force the intake to draw from the fender or other cooler source. Any material that does this will work.
Plastics conduct heat a little slower but they still conduct a significant amount of heat and they will get just as hot as the aluminum.
The static layer of air is the real insulator, no the plastic and not the aluminun....same principal as a sleeping bag.
Both plastic and aluminum will stop radiant heat. Think of radiant heat as "light waves". Any mirrored surface will reflect some and any flat surface will absorb. This still doesn't matter as the static layer of air on the inside of the box near the wall is your best insulator. Radiant heat isn't an issue with the airflow so much as the non-moving parts. The biggest culprit is conduction to the air from the readiator and manifolds/pipes that flows throughout the engine bay. After it is in contact with these components and absorbs heat through conduction, convection, and advection, it gets sucked into the engine. THAT is the killer.
True enough, except for the part about plastics conducting heat "a little slower". Plastics have a much higher specific heat capacity than aluminum and will thus require a much higher influx of heat to reach the same temperature as aluminum. Also, the air inside the heatshield is not quite static like a sleeping bag; after all, it's contiually being sucked into the intake. Thus, this is all a moot point if there is no inlet for cold air, such as the stock air inlet hose.
Anyway, if I was going to make my own heatshield, I would construct it out of aluminum and then coat the inside with some sort of foam insulation. The air bubbles inside foam insulation create lots of static air space and indeed that is one of the best ways to insulate from heatsoak.
Okay, enough on this subject anyway. Screw the heatshield and just get a CAI, it's better on all counts 
That is also not correct If I RECALL (IIRC)
IIRC most solids have a heat capacity on the order of
6 calories/mole*degreeK
Substances like styrofoam have a cellular structure that impedes the flow of heat due to reduced cross sectional area of the cell walls, but the material corrected for density is very similar in heat capacity. Also, temperature rise is the same for these materials when the source temp is constant. The airflow is dynamic so the rate that it will pick up heat will be slower with certain materials than others since the heat conduction is lower in some materials than others (i.e. metals versus styrofoam).
In a very short time everything in that engine bay and on that surface of that motor will be at comparably similar temps irregardless of composition.
If you don't believe me, take a thermocouple and measure the temperature of the intake manifold surface (aluminum), then measure the temperature of the spark plug boot (silicone) when the engine is at a steady state operating temperature.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by contourdude:
People should post pictures...What happens if you dont have a heat shield....
You will suck in the ~180 degree air while at engine idle on a hot day until you take off and achieve some faster airflow through the radiator. After about 30mph you generally have sufficient aiflow for the air to cool efficiently and the temps will drop and it will act pretty normal to a regular stock intake system (with regard to temperature) except it may be a few degrees warmer (and of course should flow better due to increased filter size/less restriction).
AT faster speeds it will not be any significant difference with an open element vs. a shielded one as the rate of airflow will be so high that it doesn't rise in temp much as it travels through the engine bay. Think of it as the same heat spread out amongst a much larger amount of air therefore the temps of the air doesn't rise much versus at idle where that same heat is spread to all the air in the compartment where only the engine drawing in air causes any airflow under the hood. BIG DIFFERENCE.
So just your low speeds and takeoffs will suffer on moderately warm days to VERY BAD on really HOT days as in the desert.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by louisw:
I wonder, after you're done making this heatshield and sealing it around the filter.. is it really that much better than a stock SVT airbox? 
I've gone through the KKM, K&N OEM drop-in, monsterflow foam filter (with and without the SCA CAI), the now-defunct SMA CAI, and now I'm back to the stock airbox again. Admittedly the KKM was without a heatshield, but really the only noticeable difference between any of these was sound level and a lighter wallet...
Not really. How could it be since the fender opening is still the same damn size and with the heat shield they have cut off any additional flow to the filter? Same identical setup as the SVT stock filter box actually.
The open air filter has the advantage once the car is moving after that point since it is not restricted by the small fender opening and once the incoming air is cooler it will see a larger benefit.
Funny how you are the only one to really hit on this.
I have dyno tests of open K&N versus stock SVT K&N and no significant change. Now if it was a larger K&N and open element it would have seen some better increases.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by louisw:
Originally posted by RogerB:
Dyno?
stock compared to monsterflow and different resonator, the average difference was +6 ft-lbs/+3 HP. peak was +9/+4.5, respectively. not bad.. but probably not noticeable either. it's worth noting that gains were across the board.
Most dyno's are done with a fan and with the hood OPEN. This means that there is no trapped hot air as hot air always rises. The open filter will always have an advantage in this test but real world road testing will be a little different.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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