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Originally posted by eyevancsu:
There is some pipe insulation that you can purchase at any hardware store thats like 6ft long (how mine came) for a few pennies that is split along a side with self-adhesive edges, perfect for sticking on the edge of the shield. This foam insulation was around 2in diameter and grey to black in color.
-ivan
you can find it at home depot in the pumbling department along with the hvac stuff.
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"Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by b0mbrman:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
I don't know if thats been tried....
I was going to use aluminum, and put a layer of Dynamat (or similar) on the inside walls.
Dynamat is a heat insulator?
I always thought Dynamat worked by converting vibrational energy from sound into heat. Wouldn't this then have the opposite effect we want? 
I used the name so you could visualise what I meant. There are many products out that are "sound Deadeners" and also are used as "heat barriers." Like the crap I used on my T/A's floorpans. It does both.
i would suspect the majority of sound deadeners will not block heat. you'll need a specific product for that. if your specific sound deadener is also a heat deflector, then i dont think thats common.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
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should i worry about aluminum touching the battery at all , and how do you know whethe ror not you are getting a seal, how do you know how to get it contoured to the hood
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It should be fine as long as it doesn't touch the terminals of the battery. (and any exposed wires as well) The foam that they are referring to actually lines the top edge of the box (where the hood meets it to box it in) Just make sure your pretty close with your measurements and the foam allows for a good 1" of play (correct me if im wrong)
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Originally posted by hmouta:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by b0mbrman:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
I don't know if thats been tried....
I was going to use aluminum, and put a layer of Dynamat (or similar) on the inside walls.
Dynamat is a heat insulator?
I always thought Dynamat worked by converting vibrational energy from sound into heat. Wouldn't this then have the opposite effect we want?
I used the name so you could visualise what I meant. There are many products out that are "sound Deadeners" and also are used as "heat barriers." Like the crap I used on my T/A's floorpans. It does both.
i would suspect the majority of sound deadeners will not block heat. you'll need a specific product for that. if your specific sound deadener is also a heat deflector, then i dont think thats common.
Correct!! Not all sound deadeners will block heat. But it's not that hard to find some that does.
2000 Contour SVT
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how do you measure to know if your box is getting close to the top of the hood? its not like you can measure with the box closed
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Man, some of you guys put entirely too much effort into the heatshield. No matter what you make it out of, its still going to be sucking in warm air from the engine bay unless you totally seal it to the fender opening. Whether its plastic, aluminum, reflective, abrasive, transparent, neon or whatever, thats all a moot point IMO. The main goal to me seems like it should be to block off as much air from the engine bay as possible. The cheap and easy heatshield: plastic trash and foam pipe insulation. Extend the sheild as close to the fender opening as possible and run a hose from the front grill to the filter for a little extra cool air. Trim the top of the filter a little at a time until it fits snug to the hood and add the pipe insulation. 
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by Rishodi:
Aluminum is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. An aluminum heatshield on its own will do little to actually insulate your air intake because it heats up rather quickly. If you insulate the aluminum with something though, then that's ideal because it will both look better and perform as well as a plastic heatshield.
This is incorrect.
All it has to do is stop the flow of hot air into the filter from the engine compartment and force the intake to draw from the fender or other cooler source. Any material that does this will work.
Plastics conduct heat a little slower but they still conduct a significant amount of heat and they will get just as hot as the aluminum.
The static layer of air is the real insulator, no the plastic and not the aluminun....same principal as a sleeping bag.
Both plastic and aluminum will stop radiant heat. Think of radiant heat as "light waves". Any mirrored surface will reflect some and any flat surface will absorb. This still doesn't matter as the static layer of air on the inside of the box near the wall is your best insulator. Radiant heat isn't an issue with the airflow so much as the non-moving parts. The biggest culprit is conduction to the air from the readiator and manifolds/pipes that flows throughout the engine bay. After it is in contact with these components and absorbs heat through conduction, convection, and advection, it gets sucked into the engine. THAT is the killer.
True enough, except for the part about plastics conducting heat "a little slower". Plastics have a much higher specific heat capacity than aluminum and will thus require a much higher influx of heat to reach the same temperature as aluminum. Also, the air inside the heatshield is not quite static like a sleeping bag; after all, it's contiually being sucked into the intake. Thus, this is all a moot point if there is no inlet for cold air, such as the stock air inlet hose.
Anyway, if I was going to make my own heatshield, I would construct it out of aluminum and then coat the inside with some sort of foam insulation. The air bubbles inside foam insulation create lots of static air space and indeed that is one of the best ways to insulate from heatsoak.
Okay, enough on this subject anyway. Screw the heatshield and just get a CAI, it's better on all counts 
E0 Silver Frost CSVT #3095/6535
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Originally posted by Jason43:
Man, some of you guys put entirely too much effort into the heatshield. No matter what you make it out of, its still going to be sucking in warm air from the engine bay unless you totally seal it to the fender opening.
It DOES require thought. (you don't just drop a lunch style paper bag around it and cal it a day, and you DO have to measure to get correct fitment) Also, who said it wasn't going to be completely sealed off? I mean, that is the general idea to block off ALL engine heat. And if it is not completely 100% sealed, it would still draw more air from the fender ducting than from the engine heat. (so to make it easy....It's not going to make a significant amount of difference)
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by using a plastic garbage can did you use on peice and cut it to size or did you use many peices and put them together somehow? because i cant find a decent size plastic container to save my life
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