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Joined: Aug 2003
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That stuff can be flammable, I wouldn't.
Anyway, you are not going to make your car faster by messing with the air filter box. Make it seal tightly to the hood and engine bay, and heat transfer through the box will be minimal. I defy anyone to show dyno-proven power from differences in materials. There is no dyno accurate enough to measure the difference.
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Originally posted by Rishodi:
Aluminum is a conductor. Plastic is an insulator. An aluminum heatshield on its own will do little to actually insulate your air intake because it heats up rather quickly. If you insulate the aluminum with something though, then that's ideal because it will both look better and perform as well as a plastic heatshield.
This is incorrect.
All it has to do is stop the flow of hot air into the filter from the engine compartment and force the intake to draw from the fender or other cooler source. Any material that does this will work.
Plastics conduct heat a little slower but they still conduct a significant amount of heat and they will get just as hot as the aluminum.
The static layer of air is the real insulator, no the plastic and not the aluminun....same principal as a sleeping bag.
Both plastic and aluminum will stop radiant heat. Think of radiant heat as "light waves". Any mirrored surface will reflect some and any flat surface will absorb. This still doesn't matter as the static layer of air on the inside of the box near the wall is your best insulator. Radiant heat isn't an issue with the airflow so much as the non-moving parts. The biggest culprit is conduction to the air from the readiator and manifolds/pipes that flows throughout the engine bay. After it is in contact with these components and absorbs heat through conduction, convection, and advection, it gets sucked into the engine. THAT is the killer.
Last edited by warmonger; 08/10/05 01:50 AM.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
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If you are going through all this trouble, why not just be done with it and put the dang filter in the fender?  
-Auto Mak or-
-Experiment or
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I have a foot that is bigger than a foot.
SuperChipFOR SALE
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OP
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whats a good material to seal the sheild to the hood? and how much space should there be between the filter and the sheild
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Joined: Oct 2004
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you're actually best spending your time getting a colder air source directed into the filter. I think if you can do that with a stock box, you will get better results than with: just a heat shield and not routing outside air into the box. or you could do both (shield and home made ram air). I had a set up that took in cold air through the fender from the lower front grill (you have a cut a bit)..but I noticed my filter was getting slightly damp after a few drives in heavy rain falls. It was routing air really well, but unfortunately it took the rain along with it, especially at faster highway speeds. I was worried about water in the intake, so I took the whole thing off.
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A well-engineered ram-air intake from the bumper should have a dip in it with a drain point so that all water splashing through the tube gets collected and drained. A long vertical section over the dip on the engine side is best, since very little water can get sucked all the way up, even when it is at WOT and heavy rain is coming in. However, the fenderwell air is cold and protected from the elements pretty well, so the airbox works well. To seal the top of the heatshield, try the closed-cell foam they put around pipes. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.
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while making my heatsheild using aluminum should i be worried about the aluminum getting to close to the battery bercaue it looks like it might have to be touching the side of the battery
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
A well-engineered ram-air intake from the bumper should have a dip in it with a drain point so that all water splashing through the tube gets collected and drained. A long vertical section over the dip on the engine side is best, since very little water can get sucked all the way up, even when it is at WOT and heavy rain is coming in. However, the fenderwell air is cold and protected from the elements pretty well, so the airbox works well. To seal the top of the heatshield, try the closed-cell foam they put around pipes. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.
Yeah, I had a dip in mine just behind the front grill, and a drain...still got moisture in somehow....I think when you are doing 120km+ on the highway, 'wet air' still finds a way in.
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should i worry about aluminum touching the battery at all and what material is good to seal the box to the hood?
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There is some pipe insulation that you can purchase at any hardware store thats like 6ft long (how mine came) for a few pennies that is split along a side with self-adhesive edges, perfect for sticking on the edge of the shield. This foam insulation was around 2in diameter and grey to black in color.
-ivan
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