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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
I don't know if thats been tried....

I was going to use aluminum, and put a layer of Dynamat (or similar) on the inside walls.




Dynamat is a heat insulator?

I always thought Dynamat worked by converting vibrational energy from sound into heat. Wouldn't this then have the opposite effect we want?

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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
and remember, you can always insulate your plastic too...



Yeah, the more insulation the better, as long as your filter still has enough room to breathe inside the heatshield.


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Conductive heat transfer is of little concern in automotive applications. Many if not most aftermarket intakes used polished metal because it makes a great heat deflector. You are trying to deflect heat, not insulate the filter. I am using reflectux around the plastic filter housing. it deflects 95% of the heat according to the manu. get it at home depot. people have also used to line firewalls, under carpets in interiors etc. The heat shield on the manifold and under the car (on the floor under the exhaust) are made of metal...take what you want from that.
anyway, like others said...the arguement goes on...

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There is so much air moving through the box that conduction is minimal. The ideal box is polished aluminum facing the engine bay and an insulating coating on the filter side, but you get far more help from the reflective surface than the insulation. Here's what happens with a black plastic one: the radiant heat from the engine eagerly warms the plastic, and the plastic radiates the heat onto the filter. With a metal one, the radiant heat is reflected back to the engine, and most of the heat on the inside is from conduction. Temperatures will be very close, but aluminum with a polished surface will be cooler. If the shroud touched the engine, then you wouldn't want metal, but it only touches the air, so conduction is not a big deal at all. However: there is not a big difference between the two, even if temps are different. 99% of the job of the box is to ensure no hot engine air gets sucked into the intake. Use whatever material will make the best seal with the hood and engine bay, and that will be the best intake.

Cliff's Notes: metal is better at keeping engine heat out of the intake box, but it doesn't matter because the difference is neglible. Worry about the seal and flow of the box instead.


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instead of making a seal to the hood wouldnt it be easier to just put a top on my heatsheild box?

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Originally posted by racerm515:
instead of making a seal to the hood wouldnt it be easier to just put a top on my heatsheild box?




You would be the first contour to have a stamped impression of your filter box after slamming the hood

Besides, I don't think it would close properly without a lot of tinkering.

No need to do this, but you can try. I'd much rather insulate the upper edges of my open box as many others do. But my filter sits far away from my engine now

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Originally posted by Pre98:
Originally posted by racerm515:
instead of making a seal to the hood wouldnt it be easier to just put a top on my heatsheild box?




You would be the first contour to have a stamped impression of your filter box after slamming the hood

Besides, I don't think it would close properly without a lot of tinkering.

No need to do this, but you can try. I'd much rather insulate the upper edges of my open box as many others do. But my filter sits far away from my engine now




Somebody makes an aluminum box like that, but I can't remember offhand who or whether it works on the Duratec or the Zetec.



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if i use an aluminum materiel that is shiny on one side and not on the other would that be a decent sheild? because if the shiny part was on the outside it would reflect the heat back towards the engine, and what is a good materiel to seal the box to the hood?

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Originally posted by b0mbrman:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
I don't know if thats been tried....

I was going to use aluminum, and put a layer of Dynamat (or similar) on the inside walls.




Dynamat is a heat insulator?

I always thought Dynamat worked by converting vibrational energy from sound into heat. Wouldn't this then have the opposite effect we want?




I used the name so you could visualise what I meant. There are many products out that are "sound Deadeners" and also are used as "heat barriers." Like the crap I used on my T/A's floorpans. It does both.


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just may sem kinda crazy, but would it be possible to use aluminum for the sheild, then on the filter side, coat it with the stuff used for spray-on bedliners?


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