Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Turn Signal Failure?

Well, I removed the upper shroud but I am not quite sure as what/where the retaining clip/clips are. I took a couple of pix:






I also found a much better pic posted b4:



Are the retaining clips them lil' black things sitting right above and in the rear of the white plastic part?

Also how them clips should be removed? Should I put a screwdriver and bend 'em towards the dash or towards the seats or otherwise?

Your help is appreciated as always. Thanks.

Anyone?

Check your signal flasher on the Multifunction switch. It is the likely culprit. I had the same problem last week. It started off with the signal working a few times and then stopping for one side, then got progressively worse for both right and left. Then the hazard flasher stopped as well unless I pushed the switch up and down a few times, or put the headlight high beam switch on and off a few times or put pressure on the signal stalk. I removed the switch a couple of times and carefully dis-assembed it with a couple of small screwdrivers making sure not to break any tabs or lose the springs or the Hazard switch toggle wire. the copper conductors in the switch are very robust and only showed minor wear. Copper is very conductive so it would take major corrosion or a very worn copper part of the switch to be a switch problem. I replaced the old grease with new after cleaning with electrical contact cleaner. The switch would work for the next day and the problem would come back. i got some success by squeezing on the flasher and partially removing it from the socket on the switch. However eventually problem came back. Sometimes it would work, sometimes it would not.
If you use a meter to confirm the electrical paths on the switch with the flasher removed you can discount the switch itself.
The intermittent problem which turned into a constant one turned out to be a failing solder connection on the flasher electrical board. If you carefully pop off the flasher cover with a small flat screwdriver and inspect the circuit board under a large magnifing glass without touching the surface mount components or chip you will likely notice a crack in the solder on the connection for one of the main spade connectors for the flasher. It will be in one corner. I soldered mine back and all problems disappeared. I have a photo showing the problem and can post it tonight. I suspect that the mounting location on the steering column makes the flasher subject to continual vibration from the drive train and eventually breaks one of the solder joints. With 264,000 KM on my car it was just a matter of time

Thanks, would greatly appreciate the pic - the prob described is exacly what keeps hapeening to me as well.

Also; pls more details as how the flasher was removed.

I just serviced the switch 2 weeks ago! In the square hole on top of the assembly, there is a tab, push it to the right or maybe left (carefully, I can't remember for sure which is correct!) The whole switch assembly pops up, then you can release the 2 wiring plugs. They have release catches on the Bottom, push up a bit and pull them out they swing around the top hooks pictured above (bottom towards dash). Then the whole switch comes out and you can replace it. The flasher relay plugs into it. Actually a very easy assembly to deal with once you do it once.

Sorry I could not upload the pic. I did not realize you must have a website to do so(is there another way). Perhaps I can email tonight.
BTW the release tab for the switch assembly is at the top of the switch. Just move it sideways (with your finger) so the tab clears the metal diecast bracket and the whole switch slides out vertically. To replace just slide it back in slowly so it easily engages the tab again. You should not have to force it out or back in. The flasher is a square relay unit that simply plugs into the bottom of the switch. Just pull the flasher out. You can replace with a new Ford one ( do not use any other), but I suggest you carefully pop off the cover and inspect the circuit board. You may see the broken solder joint for one of the main spade terminals. You have to look carefully. I did not see it at first and it took a 2nd try after a few days for me to notice it. If it is there, it is your choice to buy or repair. I fixed because Ford Canada has them priced at $30 CDN. In the US ~$10 US. Mine has been working fine since I resoldered the connection.