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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The power curve looks great. The torque curve is nice and flat.

The NA program looks good.

You could alter the mid range timing curve and add more timing below the IMRC. Remember no IMRC adder down there.




Thanks! This was a base tune to see the results, and for Brent to get an idea of how the Contours react to timing. I think I'm going to get him to come into town and get on the dyno with the car and get things perfect.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The fuel trim on the nitrous program looks off.




I know, I really don't know how to explain that. I'll be talking to Brent tomorrow about it, as it look like he didn't fatten the fuel curve up enough.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Was the wide band O2 lead in the tail pipe or a secondary O2 bung?




Tailpipe unfortunately. I really need to get a testpipe so I can use the bung I welded in after the main cat. Was hoping to have had the testpipe by now.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The nitrous pull has issues. What happened to linear mode?




That is the linear mode. It's definitely not as linear as I imagined it! I don't think the Venom kit has anything for tip-in, so I definitely need to get some more fuel added once the nitrous hits, then have it backed off.

All in all, I'm very pleased with the work Brent's done without ever working with the Contours before. I'm sure that we'll get everything worked out in the end, and I'll be back again with higher #'s. Next time I'll have nitrous #'s!!

Mark


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I was extremely impressed with the tuning by mail order from the guy that tuned Mark's X-cal. Almost spot on to where he wanted it. I'll see if I can get the videos I took up.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Do you think the nitrous valve/nozzle is working properly?

How low is the timing curve on that nitrous run?


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Greg,
He just pulled 2 degrees of timing throughout the whole rpm range for the nitrous setting. Knowing that a lot of people are throwing nitrous kits on their cars without ANY tuning, I guess we both figured it'd be safe with nearly stock timing. I did have him pull a couple degrees, just to be on the safe side.

Phil @ Dynotech says that the tailpipe sniffer is generally about 4/10's leaner than at the motor, and that at 12.7 A/F, I should be closer to 12.3 at the motor(generally speaking). I think I could lean it out a little more for a couple extra ponies, but will probably need to experiment with that more on the dyno(O2 wideband), and take the guesswork out of it. Any suggestions are welcome!

Now, to figure out where this intake leak is coming from.

Mark


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Your engine is likely aroung 11 to 1 CR with the chamber work.

You are starting from the base SVT timing tables.

What octane fuel are you running?

~~~

Increase tip in timing retard.

Increase tip in fuel trim.

Don't forget about the +11 degrees from the IMRC adder. If you are above the IMRC point (or just don't have them ) the moment you pass WOT it hits.

What does your fuel base table look like?


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Your engine is likely aroung 11 to 1 CR with the chamber work.




With the Hybrid, I'd say 11-11.2:1 CR.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
You are starting from the base SVT timing tables.

What octane fuel are you running?




I had 92 Octane fuel for the dyno runs. I generally use 93 Octane.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
~~~

Increase tip in timing retard.

Increase tip in fuel trim.

Don't forget about the +11 degrees from the IMRC adder. If you are above the IMRC point (or just don't have them ) the moment you pass WOT it hits.




Wanna dumb it up for me? Excuse my tuning inexperience, but this is why I'm having this done as opposed to tuning myself

EDIT: Only the IMRC adder part. I understand I need to decrease timing at tip-in, and increase fuel at tip-in. It's just a matter of how much? I called Venom today and the guy that programs all of the modules wants me to send my Venom computer to him and he'll recalibrate it to add more fuel. I really don't know if he's going to be able to come even close to adding the correct amount, or if I should just have it tuned to add more fuel.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
What does your fuel base table look like?




I never received any of these files from Brent. I'm sure he could email them to me if I requested.

Mark


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The IMRC adder is a table that controls the amount of timing increase to add when the IMRC is open.

It's normally +11 degrees on top of the PCM's timing calculation. That's a large part of the "kick" you feel when the secondaries hit.

If you are above 4100rpm (stock programming) the IMRC adder is always on.


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So everything above 4100rpms has an additional 11 degrees of timing, on top of the base tables? From what Brent emailed me, the factory timing tables are so:

1100rpm -4
1500rpm 0
2250rpm 4
3000rpm 5
3500rpm 7
4000rpm 8
4500rpm 10
5250rpm 13.5
6000rpm 17
6750rpm 21

So in actuality, @

4500rpm 21
5250rpm 24.5
6000rpm 28
6750rpm 32

Is this correct? And these are the only rpm points in which he can alter with this software. So how much timing would you suggest pulling? 5,10 degrees above 4100rpms?

Mark


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You should get the fuel problem solved first. The timing issue may just take care of itself once the correct amount of fuel is there to keep combustion temps down.

I can't imagine you adding a ton of fuel to your nitrous tune to compensate for the venom. Whenever you run that setting and not spraying you'll be dumping extra gas. The venom is supposed to add the correct amount of fuel when the spray starts.
Send venom the computer and a print out of your dyno graphs along with the pertinent information on the injection system, desired horsepower, etc.



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Originally posted by warmonger:
Send venom the computer and a print out of your dyno graphs along with the pertinent information on the injection system, desired horsepower, etc.




This is my main concern, I really don't know how close he'll be able to get it with the dyno graph I'll have to send. I talked to the guy that programs all of their modules. He said he'll recalibrate it at no charge, so what can it hurt? Just sucks I need to get the car BACK on the dyno, or find someone with a wideband to make sure the A/F is ok.

Mark


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