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Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
I'm interested in hearing how you make out...

Make sure you loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the piston. Mine, once the bleeder screw was loose, I could compress them by hand. At least I think thats what I did.




I already tried that. I had it loosened enough that it was leaking a little bit of fluid, but only from the bleeder. I tried compressing it by hand, but no luck. Will get a clamp tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Thanks again !


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YOu don't need to crack the bleeder open. Just use a clamp to compress the piston back.

-Todd


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Originally posted by Silver Snake:
YOu don't need to crack the bleeder open. Just use a clamp to compress the piston back.

-Todd




Agreed. Most technicians don't as well.

However I believe that is is better that you do crack open the bleed port. If you have contamination in the fluid or if you push the piston back too quickly, you risk damaging the master cylinder.


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I used a big assed C - clamp, or you can just go buy a caliper compressor for like 10-15 bucks.


~Alex Ex- SVT Driver627 MUST SELL!!!LOCAL: Pre-98 MOLDED trunk Polk db speakers Corolla parts LED Underbody Kit PM 2000 Green CSVT gone on 2/17/06 2001 Toyota Corolla (SHE RUNS!!!) 1989 Mustang LX 5.0
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
I'm interested in hearing how you make out...

Make sure you loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the piston. Mine, once the bleeder screw was loose, I could compress them by hand. At least I think thats what I did.




I already tried that. I had it loosened enough that it was leaking a little bit of fluid, but only from the bleeder. I tried compressing it by hand, but no luck. Will get a clamp tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Thanks again !




Got it !!! I got a clamp today, and got it all together! Test will be tomorrow. I need to touch-up my caliper paint and then I'll throw the wheels back on and give it a whirl. I need to throw a little more brake fluid back in though, I lost some as I compressed the piston.

Thanks for all of the help. It did make a difference.


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Good to hear!

I know you don't have to open the bleeder screw but if you risk damage otherwise, even if it *usually* isn't a problem why take the chance?? Especially for so little more work...

C clamps work wonders...


1999 Mystique LS V6 Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
I'm interested in hearing how you make out...

Make sure you loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the piston. Mine, once the bleeder screw was loose, I could compress them by hand. At least I think thats what I did.




I already tried that. I had it loosened enough that it was leaking a little bit of fluid, but only from the bleeder. I tried compressing it by hand, but no luck. Will get a clamp tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Thanks again !




Got it !!! I got a clamp today, and got it all together! Test will be tomorrow. I need to touch-up my caliper paint and then I'll throw the wheels back on and give it a whirl. I need to throw a little more brake fluid back in though, I lost some as I compressed the piston.

Thanks for all of the help. It did make a difference.




I actually didn't get a large enough clamp, so ended up doing compressing it by opening the bleed valve, and pushing really hard with 2 hands.


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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
I'm interested in hearing how you make out...

Make sure you loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the piston. Mine, once the bleeder screw was loose, I could compress them by hand. At least I think thats what I did.




I already tried that. I had it loosened enough that it was leaking a little bit of fluid, but only from the bleeder. I tried compressing it by hand, but no luck. Will get a clamp tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Thanks again !




Got it !!! I got a clamp today, and got it all together! Test will be tomorrow. I need to touch-up my caliper paint and then I'll throw the wheels back on and give it a whirl. I need to throw a little more brake fluid back in though, I lost some as I compressed the piston.

Thanks for all of the help. It did make a difference.




I actually didn't get a large enough clamp, so ended up doing compressing it by opening the bleed valve, and pushing really hard with 2 hands.




ALL FINISHED ! I added some Brake fluid and then drove around a little. It was a little scary the first couple of stops as I built up pressure, but after I topped it off again, it is perfect now ! NO VIBRATION ! ! !

I'm so proud of myself ! ha ha

Tomorrow, one last attempt at getting my y-pipe off to change out the oil pan gasket. Then new front and rear roll resistors (stock) and I should be good to go.


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I know I'm a little late to the party but a couple thoughts.

Make sure you torque your lugs evenly with a torque wrench. Uneven torquing of the lugs greatly increases the likelyhood of future warped rotors.

This would have been a great time to flush you brake fluid system. There is an FAQ with detailed instructions.

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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