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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Some sort of rust penetrator....and a hammer...if the hammer doesnt work, get a bigger hammer.
All right, a hammer it is. I have already soaked and resoaked them with PB Blaster... I'll let it soak overnight again, and then go at it with a hammer.
Thanks !
Well I'm half-way there. Passenger's side pulled and replaced. PB B'laster, for about 24 hours- multiple applications and a 1 lb. rubber mallet seemed to do the trick. The driver's side is giving me a little more trouble though.
Thanks for the suggestions.
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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what stazi said inst always true. i had a rotor that warped badly and i was beating it with a bfh for about 45 minutes till it came off. and that was over two years ago and my wheel bearings are fine. so there is a chance you will need wheel bearings. but maybe you wont.
2000 contour V6 ATX
BAT suspension kit, k&n filter, SVT TB, SVT UIM, SVT LIM, MSDS headers, MSDS Y-pipe, SVT dual exhaust, Custum burned ADC chip, 7000k HID's, 200 amp HO alt, custom gauges, and 17" rims
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Well of course don't break a sweat wailing on the rotor with a hammer...A hammer is step 2 when it will not just "pull" off with your hands. Rust penetrator and a whack or two usually will break the rusty bond the rotor has. Give it a half-a$$ed whack and it should come loose. Never use a sledge or similar to try and remove it. It will work eventually, but then you'll have additional repairs, like Stazi said.
2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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When I had a bad wheel bearing we took a sledge to the rotor, soaked it in PB blaster, nothing worked. Next morning I said the heck with trying to get it off in one piece and grabbed the Sawzall and My dremel. Took 4 metal cutting blades but I got 'em off...  Even when the rotor was cracked in two it was still hard to get broken loose... 
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Heh ask Christine's husband and Brian about my car... took 5 hours to get both rotors off. They were both beating them at the same time with a hammer, and PB blaser, and everything. They eventually kept dremmeling the hub down a tiny bit and beating it, and finally the thing came off, hit the catch pan, and blew dirty brake fluid and rust chunks all over them and everything else.
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Some sort of rust penetrator....and a hammer...if the hammer doesnt work, get a bigger hammer.
All right, a hammer it is. I have already soaked and resoaked them with PB Blaster... I'll let it soak overnight again, and then go at it with a hammer.
Thanks !
Well I'm half-way there. Passenger's side pulled and replaced. PB B'laster, for about 24 hours- multiple applications and a 1 lb. rubber mallet seemed to do the trick. The driver's side is giving me a little more trouble though.
Thanks for the suggestions.
After several hours today I finally got it off. I was hitting at if from beneath/ behind with a regular hammer, then pried the front and back sides apart. Finally got some chunks loose, then some pieces of the backside. Kept hitting at it, and all the time soaking and resoaking with PB Blaster. Finaly got all the braking surface off. Took a drill to the cap, and weakened any cracks. Drilled or hammered at the cracks... Finally the cap came loose. Wow it was an ordeal. See photo, when it was all said and done.
*** NEW PROBLEM***. I can't get the caliper back on with both pads in it. It seems like maybe the brake pedal has been pressed and the inside pad been psuhed in. How do I release the pressure? I opened the bleed and let out some fluid thinking that might release the pressure and let me push the inside pad out, but no luck.
Any suggestions? Once I can get the caliper back on, this project will FINALLY be over... PLEASE HELP ! ! !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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Take a clamp or something along those lines to the caliper. You want to loosen up the bleeder screw and then squeeze the piston inwards, so you will have more room to work. Then tighten the bleeder screw back up. This is what I did when I did my brakes, worked great. It may be a tight squeeze even with it opened up but it will work.
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
Take a clamp or something along those lines to the caliper. You want to loosen up the bleeder screw and then squeeze the piston inwards, so you will have more room to work. Then tighten the bleeder screw back up. This is what I did when I did my brakes, worked great. It may be a tight squeeze even with it opened up but it will work.
This is correct.
A common tool to depress the caliper piston is a 6" woodworking "C" clamp. It is best to depress the piston before removing the caliper. You want to push it back evenly. If it get cocked to one side it will bind.
If indeed, someone did press on the brake pedal and extend the piston out too far, that could be another matter. If it has come out too far, I would expect there to be a severe fluid leak from around the piston so since you didn't say anything about that I would guess that you are OK.
If it has been extended too far, all is not lost. It isn't that hard to put back together, but it would be wise to buy a seal kit and replace the seals while it is apart. There are two seals. The boot seal that you can see, and the square cut "O" ring inside the caliper around the piston. Pull the piston out (or blow it out with compressed air with an old brake pad or block of wood to catch it), clean out the bore and piston with brake clean, replace the seals, lubricate well with fresh brake fluid, and reassemble.
To get the piston back into the boot seal, you may need a bent paper clip to help pull back the edge of the seal. Another method is to use compressed air blown gently through the hole where the hose attaches as you move the pistone toward the bore. If you figure out the right airflow and slow movement of the piston insertion, the boot seal will move aside from the air pressure and allow the piston to slide in "like it had eyes".
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by 99Mystique ATX:
Take a clamp or something along those lines to the caliper. You want to loosen up the bleeder screw and then squeeze the piston inwards, so you will have more room to work. Then tighten the bleeder screw back up. This is what I did when I did my brakes, worked great. It may be a tight squeeze even with it opened up but it will work.
Ok. So I was right, I just wasn't pushing hard enough. Good to know. I will try it out tomorrow.
Thanks for your suggestions. I will update this thread, if you care.
Thanks again !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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I'm interested in hearing how you make out... Make sure you loosen the bleeder screw before compressing the piston. Mine, once the bleeder screw was loose, I could compress them by hand. At least I think thats what I did.
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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