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ok, so I've been trying to get rid of this damned moose. at this point, I'm not even sure it IS moosing any more. drilled some copper caps, tried 7/64, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, and 1/4. 7/64 seems to have the RPMs drop the quickest, but that seems a bit smaller than most have used, no? the problem is the whine is still there. before I never really cared, but a couple different people have commented on "why does your car make that noise" or something of that sort, so I wanted to fix it. I'm wondering now, maybe it isn't moosing? a while back I purchased an SVT exhause w/ vibrant a res. already welded in from a fellow CEGer. could something be wrong w/ the res? when the car's on and I stick my head underneath I can still hear the whine perfectly, like it could be coming from the res. but at this point I'm just not sure. anyone have sound clips of moosing maybe? blah, I just want my car sounding normal again  
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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What is the term moosing?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Moosing is that loud foghorn noise that emits from under your hood. Search around a bit.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
anyone have sound clips of moosing maybe?
I think this sound wave is as close as I could find on the web. It is actually a liittle higher pitch than this.
http://www.sanpedro.com/sounds/foghrn10.wav
As I mentioned in your previous post, Ford never really got rid of it. I have tried the 96 (bagpipe) and 97 (air hose and new IAC) fix and it does come back every now and then when I have the A/c on(just when the RPMs drop to 1500). I have not tried the copper cap fix yet though. I should one of this days but the moose only comes once every month or so. I can live with it for now.
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/01/05 06:44 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Moosing is not a whine. It's .... moosing, a foghorn kinda thing. I suspect:
1. exhaust could be leaking
2. power steering whine
3. belt whine
4. DPFE hoses might be off the sensor or have holes in them
among others... Track the sound down. Listen under the hood over the engine to try & located it. If it is from under the car, put the car up on ramps & crawl under there & poke around.
Be safe & keep your hands & tools away from any moving parts!
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
ok, so I've been trying to get rid of this damned moose. at this point, I'm not even sure it IS moosing any more.
drilled some copper caps, tried 7/64, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, and 1/4. 7/64 seems to have the RPMs drop the quickest, but that seems a bit smaller than most have used, no?
7/64 is bigger than 3/16 but smaller than quarter...you show it and describe it smaller than 1/8 th? Are you sure you dont mean 9/64 ??? Because 7/64 is almost a quarter inch...and that size is fine. You do know you need to reset the computer for this as well right? 
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Joined: Aug 2003
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1/8 = 8/64, I meant 7/64, which is smaller, and deff. smaller than 3/16 which = 12/64. yes, I reset the computer
1995 SE
2.5L V6/MTX
187k
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
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Sorry...was thinking 7/32. 7/32 just a little bigger than 3/16 worked best for me.
Last edited by Taasman; 08/02/05 04:59 PM.
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Newbie
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Newbie
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My '97 SE used to have the resonator setup like they show here: http://contour.org/FAQ/tsb/img/TSB-96-19-5.jpg . At some point I seem to have over-tightened one of the hose clamps on the resonator, because one end of it was crushed and leaking air through the crease. I took the resonator and hose out, and replaced it with a short piece of conduit and a heater hose. It seems to function OK, but the car now mooses fiercely once in a while and I know it's going to be aweful when the weather cools off (I've been wrestling the moose for a few years now, was running a restrictor with decent success). If I understand correctly, at some point subsequent to the 1997 model year Ford changed the idle air control assembly, dropping the resonator and replacing the IAC valve with a slightly different model. I am currently thinking of replacing the IAC valve with a new one for a 2000 Contour. NAPA lists different part numbers for 1997 vs 2000. Should I expect this to fit, and stop the moose problem? Ford refers to moosing as "hooting", which doesn't seem very accurate to me but might help you imagine the sound. It helps to read it "mooooooooooooooooose"; then the similarity is more clear. I do know that if it does it when I come to stop at a crosswalk, it really scares the pedestrians. It sounds like the horn on my Triumph, only louder.
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Welcome. The part numbers are here in this FAQ. As you had the old (stock) setup, you do need to keep the plastc connector (conduit) so that you can connect the 45 degree bend (air valve tube assembly) hose on the end of the air intake duct.
http://www.contour.org/FAQ/FAQ.php?s=probs&displayid=15
I've seen a picture with both the 96 and 97 fixes but I can't find it just now. As I mentioned earlier, I have tried the 96 and 97 fixes and it still comes back every month or so. And as mentioned, everybody who did the throttle hang fix have not had that problem again. Good luck
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/02/05 09:35 PM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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