The stock pistons and rods are perfectly balanced from the factory. If your not racing the engine or moving your rev limiter any higher, run a rebuilt stock bottom end. The overbore won't be worth the money or the performance gain. If you want power, focus on the headwork. A good port and polish with a 3 angle valve job with yield the best results. Titanium valves, valvesprings, locks and retainers are best for high revving race engines that are disassembled alot. On stockers that will be street driven it is best to stay with more durable steel valves, locks and retainers. The titanium ones need to be checked for wear quite frequently due to the material being less durable. The locks will wear and let the retainer pop off of the spring. This lets the valve drop into the cylinder. The springs would make a nice addition though. Cams would help immensely as well. Make sure you get a ported head - one that is flowed or port matched, It is the only way to know that the head is flowing equally on all the cylinders and producing REAL gains. Try to avoid the home done ones, granted there are alot of people out there who know what they are doing, but they don't have the benefit of a flowbench or the ability of actually showing the improved airflow. If done wrong, you can hurt airflow more than help. It doesn't take much to hurt it either.

95 Contour, Custom EVO bodykit, 2.0l, PNP Focus head, Stage 2 cams, Je pistons, Eagle rods, 4in1header, 2.5" header back exhaust(complete stainless), D P nitrous, ram air intake, 10mm wires, flamethrower.