This is my first dyno at 5psi with a 2.25" exhaust, open element airfilter and 2.5" downpipe with crappy connector to the main exhaust and stock everything else including fuel and ecu.
This is my dad's dyno on a Focus ZX3 with same turbo and intercooler, but 30lb injectors stock maf/airbox,exhaust, and around 5.5-6psi. My dyno was on a dynojet, his is a mustang dyno.
You convert his to dynojet figures and he's pushing 140whp and 160wtq. That's with a good tune that's real conservative. If he didn't have the stock airbox and filter and exhaust, he'd get at least 5-10hp more, easy. Still, he's satisfied with his numbers and his spool is instant.
That's why I prefer a turbo. And yes you get more TQ and TQ can break things, you don't have to drive it like you stole it to get the power. I've got 211wtq below 4000rpms, with gas prices what they are I rarely go over 3000rpms these days and I still have 180+wtq at that rpm. A easy right foot will go a long way to stop wheel spin and not breaking things.
The best thing about a properly sized turbo on a stock Zetec is it put's all it's boost down low where the engine can handle it better. At higher rpms the forces on the engine rise exponentially and not linearly. Meaning while the forces on the engine at 3000rpms = x, the forces at 6000 rpms aren't (x * 2), they're more like x squared. That's why I don't like SC or high output turbo setups. They put all the power at the top where the stresses are greater.
My ideal setup now would be a small turbo like I have, with a dual stage boost controller setup to overboost the turbo to 14psi from the spool up till 4500rpms or so, then it drops to 10psi and stays there till the redline. That would give you around 250wtq or more but still only around 200whp. But having that much TQ at 3000rpms would feel awesome and be totally streetable.
I didn't even throw my car on a dyno....that is how easy the S/C is to tune. 
