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Hi,
I'm new to the forum. Also, I'm a mom, not a mechanic.
I checked the FAQ's, Common Problems and did a search of the forums and did not find this problem - please forgive me if I somehow missed it.
I bought my son a 98 GL, auto trans, 2.5 liter V-6 Duratec, with 57,000 miles on it, California emissions. I was warned there was a transmission problem and here it is:
When accelerating, the transmission and engine both run very smoothly.
However, when going over dips or rough road, the transmission disengages, the engine revs way up and then the transmission goes back into gear with a tremendous clunk.
To a certain degree, we can avoid this by letting up off the gas as the car loses gravity (I don't know how else to say it - it is when you are coming to the up-side of a dip and you feel a little lighter). But sometimes it will just do it on a very rough road.
It does not require accelerating to make it happen and does not seem to be at any particular speed, but is most noticable around 10-25 mph.
There is the appropriate amount of fluid in the transmission, it looks OK (not burnt) and it is not leaking.
Also, I should say that the check engine light goes on periodically (I am running premium gas) and the battery light goes on when it is under load (i.e., accelerating).
Getting the transmission rebuilt is about $2000, so is not worth it. Any other ideas?
Thank you very much for your time.
Phoebe
98 Contour GL, Auto V-6 Duratec
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Welcome. The first thing anyone would say to you is to get the CEL codes read. Autozone will do it for free. Then post the codes and we can go from there.
Based on previous posts, some recent, you will note that the Battery/Charge light coming on is due to the brushes in the alternator "floating" (as Ray would call it). Alternator is about to go.
I'm sure someone else who has experienced the tranny problem will chime in with suggestions.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Maybe the transmission range sensor, a switch on the top of the trans the tells the computers which gear. Wiring could have a problem. What are your codes? Also, does the speedometer drop to 0 mph with the problem? The miles on the car are low, and if fixed you can drive for years.
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On another site, I read that the battery light could be caused by the serpentine belt slipping - is the alternater a more likely cause?
I will get the codes read this weekend and post again.
Thank you.
98 Contour GL, Auto V-6 Duratec
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When the a belt slips you would "usually" hear a screeching/squealing sound (unless you did hear it but forgot to mention). It might just as well be a loose wire connection too. Or corrosion (whitish/greenish powdery "gunk") at the battery terminal. When you get the codes scanned, have the person at the parts store look at the terminals and battery cables too.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Posts: 7
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No squealing belt.
We don't have an Autozone. There is a auto shop on our military base that has a machine, but I can't figure out where to connect it to. Can someone tell me what to look for - is it under the hood or under the dash?
Thanks,
Phoebe
98 Contour GL, Auto V-6 Duratec
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On the 98, it should be under the dash, driver's side.....more or less under the steering wheel, perhaps a little to the left.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Thanks.
The diagnostic posted P1780, which the guy at the center said referred to a transmission sensor. He cleared the code; said to put a teensy (1/4 pint) of fluid in it because it was just at the line where it was going to need more, then see if the rev/clunk happened again. If it did, we could run the diagnostic again to see if it posts the same code. Sadly, it costs nearly $50 every time I run the diagnostic...
98 Contour GL, Auto V-6 Duratec
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A basic Actron code scanner might be handy. I received one for Christmas, so I don't think it's too expensive.
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Autozone website has a picture of the Data Link Connector. In addition, it also has some pictures for minor repairs. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cc/6d/0900823d801bcc6d.jspThe basic Pocket Actron 9125 scanner costs about $75 (although their website lists it at a little higher). http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16298To download an owners' manual (free) go to www.fleet.ford.com.As for repair manuals, I have a Ford CD, Haynes Manual and can usually borrow the Chilton from the library if necessary. The Ford CD has schematics only. The Chilton from my library also has schematics only. Haynes has pictures and so does the Autozone site. If you don't want to spend too much money on the transmission (yet), you may want to consider a transmission flush (which should cost about $100 at an indie or $160 at Ford dealer). Note that your CEL P1780 is "Transmission Control Switch out of self test range". So the ATF flush is a long shot but you never know.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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