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Is the splash shield in place and have you ever flushed the coolant system?
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
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I flushed the system and replaced with a 65/35 water/coolant (red) mix along with water wetter. I have tested with both the splash shield in place and removed. The splash shield helps a little, but does not make a huge difference from what I can tell. I also have my fans set to turn on anytime I choose. I have pulled the t-stat out completely and can still hit 200F w/o much trouble (not on track but testing near my house - the Gingerman event will tell me just how well everything is working together). I am in the process of boxing in the radiator in hopes this will help some. My conclusion at this point is that the radiator is likely clogged and probably needs to be removed and tanked to clean it out.
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
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Originally posted by Hdbngr8:
Not trying to start a flame war here but you are only partially correct in your statement. True Q = kA (Ti-To) which describes the conductivity of the radiator. However the heat removed from the system through the coolant is Q = k * mass flow rate of coolant * temp. change of coolant (Q = km(Ti-To)
The t-stat reduces the mass flow of coolant which increases the temp of the system (the energy into the system remains unchanged; therefore if the mass flow rate decreases the temp differential must increase); this is what keeps the temp up when little heat is added to the system. If you remove the t-stat and compare coolant temps (same ambient conditions, some vehicle speed) of the same vehicle running w/o a t-stat will give you lower temps. The heat into the system is unchanged (comparing with and w/o a t-stat) yet the temps are different. It is just a balancing act between the difference in coolant mass flow rates and the coolant temperature.
Example - While on the highway with my 165F t-stat my coolant temp runs at 165F. The power required to move the car at highway speed (65 MPH) is fairly small (I'm guessing maybe 20-30 Hp). With the t-stat removed I run about 150F on a summer day. However in an application where much higher Hp is used (i.e. more heat into the system), such as on track, my coolant temperature is much greater than 165F (near 200F).
OK, I'll buy most of that, but the thermostats use the same sized opening, therefore the mass flow rates should be the same once they are full open. So you can go right back to your temperature differential in your second eqn. to see the difference in total heat flow.
Also, you have to admit that without a thermostat the mass flow rate will go up since there is no restriction and you get a more efficient flow. This would cool better but would never let the engine stay at a uniform temp; something imperative for good operation of the fuel/emissions system. And still, heat rejection of the radiator will be higher if it is at a higher temp than lower, if all else was equal such as coolant flow rate and airflow rate. It makes little difference in the engine if the coolant is at 160 vs. 180 where combustion temps are 1000 degrees and where a good portion of that heat will flow into the cooling system. However, that 20 degrees does make a difference in heat flow as far as the radiator temp vs. ambient temps is concerned since
Anyway, I don't see how anything I said really contradicted what you are stating other than my terminology, but thanks for correction.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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OK I've been following this post because I was going to buy a 160 T-stat aswell. Now I'm not sure whether to go 160, 180 or stock. Florida weather is hot all the time except for a month in Jan where it actually gets cool. Humidity is also always up. I already run water wetter in the coolant. So my question is with my new 3L and CAM driven waterpump should which T-stat am I better off with?
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You are correct (and I said so) when the t-stat is open it doesn't become a player anymore (if the holes are the same size). I should clarify that different t-stats have a different hole size. The 160F Stant had a much smaller hole than the stock one. I have removed the t-stat entirely - for what I do it is perfectly fine. I agree that w/o a t-stat your temp. range will likely vary more widely depending upon how you drive the car.
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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Originally posted by warmonger:
If you remove the t-stat and compare coolant temps (same ambient conditions, some vehicle speed) of the same vehicle running w/o a t-stat will give you lower temps.
There is a point at which the flow rate through the engine is too fast to efficiently remove the heat from the engine. The t-stat also provides a more stable flow rate to maximize heat tranfer from the engine to the coolant. I've seen many causes of removing the t-stat and running hotter.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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hey, svttour;
you do realize that your original SVT engine was cam driven, as well?
Just a little off topic, sorry.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
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Just an observation on my part here, I tried to use the afformentioned 160 degree 96 mustang t-stat. when comparing the original aka CORRECT stat to the mustang stat you will notice the the mustang stat is missing the lower portion wich fits into the bottom port in the thermostat housing, used to control the flow of coolant through the housing. I went ahead and installed the mustang one despite the visual differences. I then began to have overheating issues. Not boiling over overheating but it would run up towards the top of the guage at an idle, with the rpms up to 2000 or so it would come back down. But also going down the road it would definatly run cooler than normal. I recently switched back to the CORRECT stat and havent had a problem since. My conclusion is that the Correct stat is desinged for our cars and the one for the mustang is not.
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