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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343 |
I think the main problem here is that you already went out and pretty much bought a full suspension, and THEN asked what was the best setup. The logical thing would be do ask BEFORE you buy the parts. A lot of info can be found by searching, and when it comes down to it, the best suspension setup depends directly on your personal preferences and what you want to do with the car (yes, this has been said several times in this thread already). The BAT 21mm rear sway bar is GREAT, depending on your application. But we can't really help you without knowing exactly what you want, intend, and prefer. Bottom line: you already bought new suspension components, and then ask what you should do...expect to get some crap about that, its not a very logical procedure
99 T-green svt
K&N & heatshield
Opt. y-pipe
Borla
Superchip
DMD
Magnecore wires
Metal impeller water pump
BAT / Bilstein kit
21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe
215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's
jimmkreider@yahoo.com
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 508
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 508 |
Sjsmk1 I can see where you feel offended. However it's hard to inturpet what someone really means when reading a post because it lacks the attuide one can identify when talking to a person face to face.
Really active people to the forums try to read and reply to many posts and don't really think about what they might be coming off as (rude, nice, jerk, friendly) and usually don't mean anything by there post.
Though I do find (on any site) if you don't search something first and you ask a question that has been asked lots of times, you will be flamed. This is the way of the forums. It's happen too me on many accounts.
By the sounds of what your doing it will be fine for street driving, and anything is better than the stock. However you asked a question after you purchased which brought on phils first question/remark, which sounds harsh but is also truth.
I once posted in an electronic repair forum about a TV I was working on, it didn't come out right (the post) and someone replied very harsh (so I felt) and I got upset. I replied really rude and the users was like whoa! I'm trying to help you! And almost got kicked off a paying site. When I cooled down and read what I posted the first time I saw that I didn't sound technical in the post and lacked info needed to get the help, after I admitted I was wrong for reacting the way I did and answered his questions he helped me figure out the problem.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 41
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 41 |
Well i suppose my initial intention was to see what additional components the system that i had purchased would require to be as functional as possible (ie. additional bushings, where to obtain a front sway bar, etc.)and if any other performance components that i was not aware of were available. My basic question thus should have been, what components would be required and are available to build the best street suspension ? If the equipment that i purchased is not the best, oh well, what is?, and what other than what i have, do i need? Thanks for the clarification and mediation, but i am in no way upset with what i have purchased, but more so the condescending attitude of fellow CEG members. The question then...What else is out there, in addition, before i start installing that i can do during the process?
96' Mondeo Conversion/Only one
Extensive US & UK mods
Konig Imagine 17"s on Nitto NT450 Rubber
Need $750 for wheels and tires, pics on my profile
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 343 |
sjsmk1, you just made things A LOT more clearer, and I think people will be better able to answer your questions now! I'm not suspension expert so I can't help you much, but there are definately people on here who can so i'll let it up to them!
99 T-green svt
K&N & heatshield
Opt. y-pipe
Borla
Superchip
DMD
Magnecore wires
Metal impeller water pump
BAT / Bilstein kit
21mm BAT bar w/ boxed subframe
215/45/ZR17 Toyo Proxes FZ on Rage 5.0's
jimmkreider@yahoo.com
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
Okay, street suspension is easy. Your setup will work fine. Switching to an SVT front bar is not necessary, and is a huge PITA. Get greaseable bushings from anywhere (jcwhitney is fine) for your swaybars. Get a camber kit for the front and the adjustable toe control arms for the rear. That will let you get it aligned properly, which can make a huge difference. The differential will make a big difference too. I'd recommend a Torsen.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,975 |
Originally posted by jd28: Really active people to the forums try to read and reply to many posts and don't really think about what they might be coming off as (rude, nice, jerk, friendly) and usually don't mean anything by there post.
Well said. I reply and post a lot.
My comments were not intended to be "condescending" as you continue to refer to it as. As jd28 stated:
Originally posted by jd28: However it's hard to inturpet what someone really means when reading a post because it lacks the attuide one can identify when talking to a person face to face.
Originally posted by csvt99: I think the main problem here is that you already went out and pretty much bought a full suspension, and THEN asked what was the best setup. The logical thing would be do ask BEFORE you buy the parts. A lot of info can be found by searching, and when it comes down to it, the best suspension setup depends directly on your personal preferences and what you want to do with the car (yes, this has been said several times in this thread already). The BAT 21mm rear sway bar is GREAT, depending on your application. But we can't really help you without knowing exactly what you want, intend, and prefer.
Bottom line: you already bought new suspension components, and then ask what you should do...expect to get some crap about that, its not a very logical procedure 
Agreed.
Instead of answering any of Auto-X's questions, you replied with a namecalling flame post. No offense, but I did not realize you were thin-skinned and took offense so easily.
Originally posted by sjsmk1: My basic question thus should have been, what components would be required and are available to build the best street suspension ? If the equipment that i purchased is not the best, oh well, what is?, and what other than what i have, do i need?
Now that you have finally answered the questions...
IMO:
1. GCs + Konis are a bit overkill for street use. If I could do it over again, I would have gone Bilsteins or Konis and Eibachs or H&Rs.
2. BAT bar is just fine.
3. Camber kit if you plan to really drop it. Be sure to get the upgraded plates from CEGer Thinkmoto.
4. Energy Suspension motor mount and bushings.
5. Upgrade the GC bearings - it's a must.
Nice add ons:
1. LSD - Torsen or Quaife. If you plan to do those, consider an aftermarket flywheel and clutch.
2. Upgraded suspension compnents from CEGer Brad
3. Rear STB - not sure of anyone makes one anymore, but CEGers have made their own.
Once finished, be sure to get an alignment.
HTH
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