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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
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OP
New CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 35 |
Hey everyone, I need help as soon as possible. I'm from colorado and I'm driving to California and I'm about 250 miles out of Denver headed into Utah. My car has already died once on me during this trip. I drive a 98 CSVT. When ever the car is under any load the battery light comes on but when the car is idleing the light is off. I have had my alternator replaced twice last week once because I had a bad alternator and the second time because the alternator they had installed was whining. So Since the light doesn't stay on constantly and that it charges the battery when idled then I assume that the alternator is still good. I have checked batter connections and fuses/relays. One more thing, While driving I get going a little above the speed limit then just push in the clutch to let the alternator charge the battery at idle rpms, but I have noticed that a few times the battery light flickered and the RPMs jumped a little. Need Help right away!! Thanks 
1998 Contour SE
Mods so far:
Air Intake
Custom Catback Exhaust
Enkei 16x7 Rims Covered by Barum Tires
(Sadly the only thing I don't like about my car is that it has an Auto Trany.)
Diablo Chip
Future Mods:
Custom Headers
Paint Job
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791 |
Ummmm call me crazy but it sounds like your about to be on your third alt. I think the battery can keep a good charge for about 70 miles or so with a bad alternator, turn off all your electronics... You better get wherever your going quick before you are left stranded!
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
I agree, it is most likely the alternator. I would question your source.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
the light NOT being on constantly doesn't discount the alt as a culprit. The brushes tend to float at upper RPMS and cause a no charge in that area. I, too, suspect your alternator (and your source for them)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 595
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 595 |
Same thing happened to me a couple of months ago. My alternator failed slowly, but surely when I drove from Utah to Florida. By Atlanta, I was in big trouble, but made sure I pulled over frequently and drove at low rpm's in town to charge my battery. I had my alternator replaced with one that whines, but it charges the battery really well so I didn't get a non-whining model. People ask me if I have a turbo! 4000 miles later, I'm in the Bay Area and the thing still whines but charges the battery.
Black 1998.5
3L Oval Port
Full HMS Transmission
Lots of other stuff
Ressurected 06/14/06
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,978
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,978 |
id say alt, my batterylight would come on over 5.6k rpm until I had the alt swapped
Alex
'99 SVT Contour
-=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 68
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 68 |
If Ray says it's your alternator, then it's your alternator.
~C
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14 |
You guys know what Ive always had good luck buying a alternator at a junk yard. Used always lasted until i traded car off.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6
Newbie
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6 |
Hi Ray -
You seem to be 'da man' on this subject. I'm having a similar problem...
I've got a '98 SE with the I4 2.0. A few weeks ago, my wife took the car to work and ran the battery completely dead (leaving the lights on for 8 hours will do that). Shortly after that, the battery light started to go on intermittently.
Over the last two weeks it's been going on under load pretty regularly. I cleaned the terminals on Sunday (which were crapped up to beat the band) and it disappeared for a day. It came back Monday and is doing the same thing.
I'm the second owner of the car, but am pretty sure that the battery has never been changed out, nor has the serp belt or the alternator. It's got 94K and has otherwise been a prince of a car.
My plan is to start with the cheap stuff first, swap out the battery, fuseable link and the serp belt. If it comes back, I'll spend the buck and a half and get the alternator.
Whaddya think??
Thanks,
Jim
I finally figured out why I'll never swing a golf club like Arnie or Jack... I'm not them.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
While, if original, your battery may indeed need replaced, you don't need to replace it aas a means to eliminate a charge light. The battery has absolutely nothing to do with that light. Technically, you could remove the battery while running and the light would stay off. (don't do this. the alternator produces ALOT of voltage, and you don't want that flopping around in your car... DANGEROUS to say the least.)
If your intention is to refresh the car, then a battery test/change may, indeed, be in order, but not as part of your plan to eliminate that charge light.
If the light comes on during load and isn't on all the time, then its likely your alt. if its on all the time, regardless, then its likely your fuse. Likewise: if it is your alt, and it comes on at lower rpms, it is likely the diode, wiring, etc. If it comes on at upper revs, it is likely the brushes floating.
Alternator replacement isn't as hard as people may make it seem. Use the how-to, and follow it to a "t", and you'll be fine.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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