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Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
I'd also say that mileage recommendations are fairly bogus unless an oil test is performed. Between atmospheric conditions, engine types, driving styles, oil type, etc etc telling someone to change every 3000 or 5000 or 7500 or ??? is nothing more than a guess and has no place in a technical discussion that this needs to be.
Good call. I'll expand that "One note:" bit and reccomend people who are serious about maintenance get an analysis to check for additives/silicon/metal.
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Okay, here's the cleaned-up version. Any revisions to this one? [SEARCH TERMS] Oil weight viscosity rating [/SEARCH TERMS] OIL FAQ:What do the numbers on the label mean?For example: 5W-30. It gets no thicker in the cold than a 5 weight (very thin) oil would get, and no thinner at high temps than a 30 weght (pretty thick) oil would get. What oil should I use??Well, you need to pick a type of oil, and a weight, then a brand. Type:Synthetic oils have several advantages: -They reduce wear. SM rated oils are the current best. SL/SJ cause more wear. These ratings also appear on conventional oils. Most dino oil is SL. -They have superior low-temp viscosity. -You can get 0-Wx oils in syn, but not dino. -They have less (or no) viscocity improvement additives to wear out. This is one reason they can be run longer. Dino oils have one big advantage: -They are much cheaper. In fact, they are very close to as good an oil as syntheics, but cost far less. So for most people, dino is fine, despite the technical superiority of synthetics. So which to use? I choose Mobil 1, but that's because I run my engine hard and want it to last into very high mileage. Part of the reason is because I can get it in 0W-40, which you can't find in a conventional oil. Why is this important? Weight:The Contour takes 5W-30, as listed in the manual, but you don't have to use that. Except in odd cases, you should never run something that doesn't cover that range, for example, 15W-50, or 0W-20. The low number should be 5 or less, and the high number should be 30 or more. Now why do I prefer 0W-40? Well, it's thinner when it's cold (a good thing) and doesn't get as thin when it's very, very hot (also a good thing). No downside there, except sometimes a tiny bit more cost. However, there is a downside with conventional oils. They use a lot of additives to get the wider ranges. That means less oil, and poorer lubrication (additives are less slippery than oil). So, I'd never get dino in anything but 5W-30. Brand:So what brand is best? What about all those fancy high-mileage, extended wear, clean-running, and other buzzword oils? I donââ?¬â?¢t see any benefit in any of that stuff. Most brands are fine, but Iââ?¬â?¢d stay away from bargain-basement (Wal-Mart SuperTech, etc.) oils. For a tiny bit more you can get a brand-name oil with better quality control. Basic is fine here, and anything certified will work. How often should I change the oil in my Contour?First of all: Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend you change it yourself. Quick-change places donââ?¬â?¢t pay attention to your car like itââ?¬â?¢s anything special (itââ?¬â?¢s not, to them), and may be sloppy. Also, the Duratec needs 6.5 qts of oil due to oil starvation problems. Many places will put in 5 (lazy cost-cutting jerks), or 5.5 (close, but still lazy), or 5.8 (book listing ââ?¬â?? not their fault). So how often? That depends. if you drive on dirt roads/dusty conditions a lot, have a lot of cold starts or race days, or use cheap air filters or don't change your air filter, you might want to change the oil more often. An analysis will help you make that call. Blackstone labs will send you a free kit to test your oil, you ship it back with a check for $20 and theyââ?¬â?¢ll let you know a lot of good information. Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend getting one once a year. In general: if you donââ?¬â?¢t do anything abusive (like above), 5k should be fine with dino oil, and 7500 or even more with a good synthetic. But it is not a hard and fast rule, so get it checked with an analysis if you want to run more miles between changes. What oil filter should I use?-Not Fram. They have some good ones, and some real crap ones. Orange is bad.-Motorcraft is cheap and very good. ($3-4) -K&N is very pricey. ($12) If you race, it's worth it. The K&N (HP2010 fits the V-6) filters more oil and gets more stuff out. Myths Debunked:-With modern oils you don't need to run two oils for varying temps. -Synthetics will not harm gaskets, and won't cause leaks. If you switch on a damaged engine, the damage may be revealed sooner because the crud gets cleaned out. I'd rather know sooner than later that my gaskets are shot, but that's just me. -Synthetic blends are not good. They do nothing for you. -You don't need to follow the manual's ratings exactly. -You can switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oils to your heart's content. They are fully compatible. More info:Lots of info on oil in general.More real-world info from Bob is the oil guy.Blackstone labs Oil Analysis test kit-Fil
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Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Okay, here's the cleaned-up version. Any revisions to this one?
[SEARCH TERMS] Oil weight viscosity rating [/SEARCH TERMS]
OIL FAQ:
What do the numbers on the label mean?
For example: 5W-30. It gets no thicker in the cold than a 5 weight (very thin) oil would get, and no thinner at high temps than a 30 weght (pretty thick) oil would get.
What oil should I use??
Well, you need to pick a type of oil, and a weight, then a brand.
Type:
Synthetic oils have several advantages:
-They reduce wear. SM rated oils are the current best. SL/SJ cause more wear. These ratings also appear on conventional oils. Most dino oil is SL.
I wouldn't say non-SM rated oils cause more wear. Instead, it would be more correct to say that SM rated oils have a different (some may or may not believe it's better) anti-wear additive package. There are many who believe that the anti-wear properties of an SM rated oil are inferior to previous ratings. Additives such as ZDDP have been removed or reduced to save catalytic converters. So I'm not sure I'd jump on the bandwagon that SM is better than SL/SJ oils.
Quote:
-They have superior low-temp viscosity.
-You can get 0-Wx oils in syn, but not dino.
-They have less (or no) viscocity improvement additives to wear out. This is one reason they can be run longer.
Dino oils have one big advantage:
-They are much cheaper.
In fact, they are very close to as good an oil as syntheics, but cost far less. So for most people, dino is fine, despite the technical superiority of synthetics.
So which to use? I choose Mobil 1, but that's because I run my engine hard and want it to last into very high mileage. Part of the reason is because I can get it in 0W-40, which you can't find in a conventional oil. Why is this important?
Newer oils, many made with "Group III" basestock are very similar in performance to synthetics. (Think Castrol Syntec like oils.) Many of your 5W20 oils are made with this and are often called synthetic blends. Some Group I or Group II basestock is blended with the Group III stuff to make a fine oil.
Quote:
Weight:
The Contour takes 5W-30, as listed in the manual, but you don't have to use that. Except in odd cases, you should never run something that doesn't cover that range, for example, 15W-50, or 0W-20. The low number should be 5 or less, and the high number should be 30 or more. Now why do I prefer 0W-40? Well, it's thinner when it's cold (a good thing) and doesn't get as thin when it's very, very hot (also a good thing). No downside there, except sometimes a tiny bit more cost. However, there is a downside with conventional oils. They use a lot of additives to get the wider ranges. That means less oil, and poorer lubrication (additives are less slippery than oil). So, I'd never get dino in anything but 5W-30.
Brand:
So what brand is best? What about all those fancy high-mileage, extended wear, clean-running, and other buzzword oils? I don�t see any benefit in any of that stuff. Most brands are fine, but I�d stay away from bargain-basement (Wal-Mart SuperTech, etc.) oils. For a tiny bit more you can get a brand-name oil with better quality control. Basic is fine here, and anything certified will work.
Actually, if you do some research, you'll find that many off brand oils are just repackaged name brand oils. The SuperTech you mention often gets good reviews at BobIsTheOilGuy.com Price doesn't always equal quality. I would write something about watching for bargain basement oils at your local convenience store. I see many of these stores sell Pennzoil for $3/quart, and then sell a NonDetergent SA rated oil for $1.50/quart. Most folks don't read the back of the bottle that says SA rated oil isn't for modern cars. (Goes back to 1930s, IIRC)
You contradict yourself, you say stay away from the bargain basement oils and then say anything certified (I presume) SM or SL is going to be ok. Which is it?
Quote:
How often should I change the oil in my Contour?
First of all: Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend you change it yourself. Quick-change places donââ?¬â?¢t pay attention to your car like itââ?¬â?¢s anything special (itââ?¬â?¢s not, to them), and may be sloppy. Also, the Duratec needs 6.5 qts of oil due to oil starvation problems. Many places will put in 5 (lazy cost-cutting jerks), or 5.5 (close, but still lazy), or 5.8 (book listing ââ?¬â?? not their fault).
So how often? That depends. if you drive on dirt roads/dusty conditions a lot, have a lot of cold starts or race days, or use cheap air filters or don't change your air filter, you might want to change the oil more often. An analysis will help you make that call. Blackstone labs will send you a free kit to test your oil, you ship it back with a check for $20 and they�ll let you know a lot of good information. I�d recommend getting one once a year. In general: if you don�t do anything abusive (like above), 5k should be fine with dino oil, and 7500 or even more with a good synthetic. But it is not a hard and fast rule, so get it checked with an analysis if you want to run more miles between changes.
I'd make some comment about the time issue as well. Address more than just the mileage issue. Something like every 5K miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Personally, I drive about 40-45K miles/year over two cars, so I change every 6 months. Actually, I'm trying the Mobil 1 EP right now going for 15K or 6 months in one of my vehicles. I have oil analysis that has my ex-wifes van being done with Mobil 1 in her 2.5L Duratec at 182 days and a hair over 5K miles. I have other analysis in my Geo Prizm at about 8200 miles that says the oil still has life in it, but I ran it for 4 months and changed. So there are a lot of variables, distance, time, conditions, oil useage, to consider.
Quote:
What oil filter should I use?
-Not Fram. They have some good ones, and some real crap ones. Orange is bad.
-Motorcraft is cheap and very good. ($3-4)
-K&N is very pricey. ($12) If you race, it's worth it. The K&N (HP2010 fits the V-6) filters more oil and gets more stuff out.
Myths Debunked:
-With modern oils you don't need to run two oils for varying temps.
-Synthetics will not harm gaskets, and won't cause leaks. If you switch on a damaged engine, the damage may be revealed sooner because the crud gets cleaned out. I'd rather know sooner than later that my gaskets are shot, but that's just me.
-Synthetic blends are not good. They do nothing for you.
-You don't need to follow the manual's ratings exactly.
-You can switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oils to your heart's content. They are fully compatible.
More info:
Lots of info on oil in general.
More real-world info from Bob is the oil guy.
Blackstone labs Oil Analysis test kit
-Fil
I think I'd add a section on how often to check the oil. There are folks who never check their oil. They just go to Iffy Lube every 3k miles and get it changed.
Then there are anal retentive obsessive compulsives like me who check it at every fuel stop.
I'd recommend to folks to check it weekly, or every 500 to 1000 miles if they don't bother checking it everytime they get gas.
That's my $0.02.
TB
"Seems like our society is more interested in turning each successive generation into cookie-cutter wankers than anything else." -- Jato 8/24/2004
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Originally posted by BOFH:
I'd recommend to folks to check it weekly, or every 500 to 1000 miles if they don't bother checking it everytime they get gas.
That's my $0.02.
TB
I check mine every time I open the hood ... which includes filling washer fluid and even just admiring the engine 
This FAQ might be a good place to briefly mention the different types of leaks too. i.e. gaskets or drain plug and so forth.
Maybe dig up a couple of the test results threads that were kicking about some months ago and link them as proof specific to Contours.
1998.5 T-Red on Midnight Blue SVT
Build Number 5320 of 6535
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Thanks, those are some great points! I'll modify further after feedback stops...
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Joined: Aug 2003
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How's this look? [SEARCH TERMS] Oil weight viscosity rating [/SEARCH TERMS] OIL FAQ:What do the numbers on the label mean?For example: 5W-30. It gets no thicker in the cold than a 5 weight (very thin) oil would get, and no thinner at high temps than a 30 weght (pretty thick) oil would get. What oil should I use??Well, you need to pick a type of oil, and a weight, then a brand. Type:Synthetic oils have several advantages: -They reduce wear. SM rated oils are the current best. SL/SJ cause more wear. These ratings also appear on conventional oils. Most dino oil is SL. Some don't agree that SM is better, but any of those three should be okay. I'd avoid SJ in a modern engine like this one, but it's probably not a big deal. -They have superior low-temp viscosity. -You can get 0-Wx oils in syn, but not dino. -They have less (or no) viscocity improvement additives to wear out. This is one reason they can be run longer. Dino oils have one big advantage: -They are much cheaper. In fact, they are very close to as good an oil as syntheics, but cost far less. So for most people, dino is fine, despite the technical superiority of synthetics. So which to use? I choose Mobil 1, but that's because I run my engine hard and want it to last into very high mileage. Part of the reason is because I can get it in 0W-40, which you can't find in a conventional oil. Why is this important? Weight:The Contour takes 5W-30, as listed in the manual, but you don't have to use that. Except in odd cases, you should never run something that doesn't cover that range, for example, 15W-50, or 0W-20. The low number should be 5 or less, and the high number should be 30 or more. Now why do I prefer 0W-40? Well, it's thinner when it's cold (a good thing) and doesn't get as thin when it's very, very hot (also a good thing). No downside there, except sometimes a tiny bit more cost. However, there is a downside with conventional oils. They use a lot of additives to get the wider ranges. That means less oil, and poorer lubrication (additives are less slippery than oil). So, I'd never get dino in anything but 5W-30. Brand:So what brand is best? What about all those fancy high-mileage, extended wear, clean-running, and other buzzword oils? I donââ?¬â?¢t see much benefit in any of that stuff. Most brands are fine, but Iââ?¬â?¢d stay away from bargain-basement oils. For a tiny bit more you can get a brand-name oil with better quality control. Basic is fine here, and anything certified will work. Again: SL or SM ratings only, in my car. SJ is still considered good, but I wouldn't use it. SL is cheap and plentiful. How often should I change the oil in my Contour?First of all: Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend you change it yourself. Quick-change places donââ?¬â?¢t pay attention to your car like itââ?¬â?¢s anything special (itââ?¬â?¢s not, to them), and may be sloppy. Also, the Duratec needs 6.5 qts of oil due to oil starvation problems. Many places will put in 5 (lazy cost-cutting jerks), or 5.5 (close, but still lazy), or 5.8 (book listing ââ?¬â?? not their fault). So how often? That depends. if you drive on dirt roads/dusty conditions a lot, have a lot of cold starts or race days, or use cheap air filters or don't change your air filter, you might want to change the oil more often. An analysis will help you make that call. Blackstone labs will send you a free kit to test your oil, you ship it back with a check for $20 and theyââ?¬â?¢ll let you know a lot of good information. Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend getting one once a year. In general: if you donââ?¬â?¢t do anything abusive (like above), 5k should be fine with dino oil, and 7500 or even more with a good synthetic. But it is not a hard and fast rule, so get it checked with an analysis if you want to run more miles between changes. One additional point: if you don't put on many miles, it's a good idea to get it changed before too much time goes by. 6 months is a good interval. If you drive a lot of short trips (under 10-15min), make sure you take it out for a longer drive sometimes (45-60min), to get it up to operating temperatures and burn/boil off the crud, as well as change it more often. What oil filter should I use?-Not Fram. They have some good ones, and some real crap ones. Orange is bad.-Motorcraft is cheap and very good. ($3-4) -K&N is very pricey. ($12) If you race, it's worth it. The K&N (HP2010 fits the V-6) filters more oil and gets more stuff out. Myths Debunked:-With modern oils you don't need to run two oils for varying temps. One wide-range oil is fine. -Synthetics will not harm gaskets, and won't cause leaks. If you switch on a damaged engine, the damage may be revealed sooner because the crud gets cleaned out. I'd rather know sooner than later that my gaskets are shot, but that's just me. -Synthetic blends: I wouldn't bother, although they can be decent oils. Go syn or don't, the mixing costs more than it is worth. -You don't need to follow the manual's ratings exactly. -You can switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oils to your heart's content. They are fully compatible. You Dipstick!Check your oil. Every time you get gas is a good idea, but certainly every other time is reasonable. You need to keep an eye on the level, so you know about problems before they kill the engine. More info:Lots of info on oil in general.More real-world info from Bob is the oil guy.Blackstone labs Oil Analysis test kit-Fil
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
First of all: Iââ?¬â?¢d recommend you change it yourself. Quick-change places donââ?¬â?¢t pay attention to your car like itââ?¬â?¢s anything special (itââ?¬â?¢s not, to them), and may be sloppy. Also, the Duratec needs 6.5 qts of oil due to oil starvation problems. Many places will put in 5 (lazy cost-cutting jerks), or 5.5 (close, but still lazy), or 5.8 (book listing ââ?¬â?? not their fault).
I also recommend changing your oil yourself but if you do take it to a shop, you can always just tell them to put in 6 qts. or 6.5 or whatever you want. I put in oil until it's full (start vehicle and check again). Even though I know duratecs should have 6 qts or so in them, I can't always do that. Such as when an Escape came in, and for some reason they had written on the ticket not to overfill (maybe they should right not to underfill, remember to tighten the filter,etc. while they're at it). So I know that Ford says 5.5, our books say 5.8, and I know it should have 6 qts or a bit more. I put 5.8 in in hopes that they wouldn't return angry. So what I'm saying is, just tell the shop what you want. If it's a decent shop, they'll be happy to do it.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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