Originally posted by DPDISXR4Ti:
Finally got around to fixing this by replacing the voltage regulator (VR) only. Voltage output with bad regulator was actually 19V with nothing on and car at idle; after VR replacemnt, it was 14.3V.
At a minimum, the alternator needs to be unbolted to replace the VR. Once unbolted, you can rotate it to get access to the four tamper-proof T20 screws that secure the VR in place. I actually managed to snag a VR from a rebuilt alternator at the jy. Much more easily removed at the jy once the intake manifold is liberated with a big hammer to provide clearance. 
One thing to take note of is the fact that the early cars ('95/6?) use a different quick-connector than the later ones. In a bind, you could probably switch one for the other by patching in a new quick-connector, but I don't see any reason to do so given that both are still available (I presume).
I've been thinking about this recently too. And wondered if the VR could be replaced without removing the alternator for the Duratec. It would make things much easier if I didn't have to remove the wheel, splash guards and tie rod. If anyone who has done it would post, that would be appreciated.
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/05/05 05:53 PM.
