Finally got around to fixing this by replacing the voltage regulator (VR) only. Voltage output with bad regulator was actually 19V with nothing on and car at idle; after VR replacemnt, it was 14.3V.
At a minimum, the alternator needs to be unbolted to replace the VR. Once unbolted, you can rotate it to get access to the four tamper-proof T20 screws that secure the VR in place. I actually managed to snag a VR from a rebuilt alternator at the jy. Much more easily removed at the jy once the intake manifold is liberated with a big hammer to provide clearance.
One thing to take note of is the fact that the early cars ('95/6?) use a different quick-connector than the later ones. In a bind, you could probably switch one for the other by patching in a new quick-connector, but I don't see any reason to do so given that both are still available (I presume).
