Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance Water Pump Install!

My temp gauage fluxuated all morning on my way to work and I stopped on the side of the road when it was pegged. I know the most likely culperate is the water pump and I have read the how to on the home page for the water pump replacement but my question is, that how to was for 6 cylinder cars, is it the same for the 4 cylinder contours? Thanks for any help that may be given!

not at all

read up on how to change a timing belt as it has to come off to get to the water pump

so if you haven't changed your timing belt do it at the same time

should take a few hours if you have the proper tools and knowledge

If the guage was all over the place I'm not sure why it would be the waterpump. There's the temp sender that is notorious for going bad along with a myriad other possibilities. Mine flucuates on the way to work depending on whether I'm stopped or moving...

I just figured it was the water pump because those go all the time. The temp does fluxuate but tend to stay to the high heat that is why I thought it was the water pump!

Sounds like you just might need to flush it out. You'll know when the water pump goes because it'll just overheat. It won't be hanging out at the "A" or "L" of "NORMAL" It'll be over in the read. I'd just do a flush and prolly replace the t-stat. Put in the 180-degree one and MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE THE GASKET! And if you think that the reading is funky, you could replace the temp sender as well, but that's up to you. As far as the waterpumps going, IIRC it is mainly the Duratec's pump that goes out, not ours. I know ours will die too, but I believe their's is more likely too. Somebody tell me if I'm wrong on that though...

Mine has this same problem moreso lately, I have had the whole system flushed about 8months ago. Changed the T-stat about 4-5 times (cause it's cheapest, and gasket), I'm leaning towards either the temp sender near the t-stat or the the other one (I was told there is another temp sender). Not really sure what the possibilites are and if it's the water pump I'd like to replace everything at once (T-belt, pump, sender(s)).

Anyone local to Taylor, Mi that would like some extra cash for some help....

I thought there was only one sender...? It's right on top of the t-stat housing.

Just wanted to give an update. The thermostat was the problem and my tour is nice and cold. I however will tell anyone with the DOHC 4 cyclinder that if you go to Murray's or AUtozone make sure you purchase the MOtorCraft OEM Thermostat because the first two they gave me did not match the thermostat I pulled from the car. Just some info for ya!

Lucky you I've always replaced my egine components with OEM parts even the thermo and still it idles near the AL in "NORMAL".

/sigh

Ben, is your OEM one rated for 180 degrees or higher? The reason I ask is that I flushed the system and used a 180 deg thermo and it stays below R while driving and when the A/C is on it stays at N.